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History of the expedition in Asia, 1927-1935 : 3 Volumes
Contents
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CONTENTS
PART I
PREFACE
XII
Editorial remarks by Folke Bergman
XX
List of members
XXIII
Donors of funds
XXIV
Donors of equipment
XXV
List of plates
XXVI
List of figures in the text
XXVIII
I. THE ORIGIN
1
Arrangements with Lufthansa
1
II. IN PEKING
5
Visit to Wong Wen-hao
6
Political situation
6
Expedition sanctioned by Ministry of Foreign Affairs
7
Kuomintang advancing
9
Visit to Chang Tso-lin
9
Increased anti-foreign campaign
10
Procuring hydrogen gas
10
Caravan leader
10
Arrival of European staff
11
Arrangements for passports and transport
12
Some prominent scientists in Peking
12
Contract with the Geological Survey
14
Beginning of Chinese opposition
15
Malicious rumours
17
First meeting with the opposition
19
The opposition continues
21
First draft of contract
24
Reply of the opposition
25
Main body of expedition leaves Peking
29
Chinese reaction
29
Rumours in the press
31
The Chinese offer
32
The Pao-t'ou group
36
A conversation with Dr. Wong
36
Tense situation in Peking
38
Meeting with the opposition
39
Warnings
42
Raid of Soviet Embassy premises
42
News from Pao-t'ou headquarters
43
Arrival of Roy Chapman Andrews
43
New rumours
43
Further conferences with the Chinese
44
Resignation of major Dewall
44
Report from Pao-t'ou
44
Russian anxiety
45
Visit to Yang Yü-ting
45
Reply from the opposition
46
Preparation and discussions of contract
47
Signing of contract
50
Farewell dinner
51
Arrangement of money transfer
51
The contract
52
Comments and explanations in connection with the contract
55
Comparison with the Andrews expedition
60
Definition of the term »Central Asia»
63
The start from Peking
64
From Peking to Pao-t'ou
64
In Pao-t'ou
65
III. FROM PAO-T'OU TO KHUJIRTU-GOL
68
Local storm
69
Along the Khundulun-gol
69
Advance of Chinese peasants
70
Ho-chiao, a Belgian mission-station
71
The northern boundary for the Chinese settlement
73
Route-mapping
73
IV. CAMP KHUJIRTU-GOL
75
Arrival of other members of the expedition
75
The camp
76
Expedition to Batu-khalagh-sume
78
Mingghan Jasak
78
Weather in the middle of June
79
Reduction of the baggage
80
Purchase of camels
80
Storm
81
Rain
81
Anxiety for the camel buyers
82
Sunday entertainment
82
Arrival of forty-two camels
84
Animal life in and out of camp
84
Norin's topographical work
87
Departure of the detached columns
88
Kaull's, Haslund's and Söderbom's journey to Peking
88
Maydar's festival in Batu-khalagh-sume
90
Huang Wen-pi's work
93
Dr Haude's work
94
The pilot balloons
96
Hummel's medical work
99
Number of camels
99
Starving the camels before setting off
99
Delayed start
100
The start from Khujirtu-gol
100
Revolt of the camels
101
Additional camel-men engaged
105
Tserat's return
106
V. FROM KHUJIRTU-GOL TO SHANDE-MIAO
107
The real start
107
The pleasure of isolation
108
Ancient graves
108
Chinese tax-station and farms
110
Through Liu-tao-ku
111
Yang-chang-tze-ku
112
Across wide plains
113
Meeting with Norin's column
114
Conferences in camp XIII
115
Expedition breaks up again
117
Beginning of the Winding Road
119
The Tiger Valley
120
Meeting caravans
120
Reaching Shande-miao
122
Sickness at Shande-miao
123
The monastery
124
Report of the Huang-ho expedition
126
The Dobechyn Gegen
129
VI. FROM SHANDE-MIAO TO THE EDSEN-GOL
130
The first sand-dunes
130
Tukhumin-sume
131
Through the wastes of Alakshan
131
Crossing a motor-track
135
Encounter in the Gobi
136
A servant astray
137
Ukh-tokhoi
138
Catching up Larson
139
Theft of two camels
139
Sandstorm
141
The Well of the Lamp
142
Olon-toroi, a friendly oasis
143
Tale of caravan robbery
144
Arshan-obo and its health spring
145
Through the high sand
146
Boro-tsonch
147
Khara-khoto
148
Arrival at the Edsen-gol
150
VII. STAY AT THE EDSEN-GOL
151
Re-packing of provisions
151
A first excursion
152
Boat-building
152
Two excursions start
153
The camp-fire
153
Cooler weather
155
Double tenth festival
155
Expedition to Mao-mu
155
Despatch of a courier to Urumchi
157
Larson's boat ready
158
Tsondol―Sogho-nor by boat
159
The Torgut prince
162
Visit by the son of the Torgut prince
165
Reaching Sogho-nor
166
Crossing Sogho-nor
167
Moving over to the Oboin-gol
169
The Oboin-gol
170
Return from Ghashun-nor to Tsondol
171
A first party leaves for Hami
172
Sinking of the Edsen-gol
173
My winter dwelling
173
Söderbom's winter dwelling
173
Marschall's return
174
Reply from Peking
175
Neighbours and visitors
175
Visit from a Russian couple
175
The Torguts
176
Our first meteorological station
180
Preparations for the start
182
VIII. FROM THE EDSEN-GOL TO HAMI
183
Departure from Tsondol
183
The Hami caravan
183
The first stage
184
The Mören-gol
185
Days of storm
187
Meeting with Norin's column
188
Parting from Norin's column
190
The first snowstorm
190
Turning west again
191
The Ikhen-gol oasis
193
Expedition to replenish supplies
194
Critical days in the desert
195
Tsaghan-burgasun
197
A big merchant caravan
198
Winding through the hills
200
Gallstone trouble
201
Journey by stretcher
203
Re-organization of the caravans at Sebestei
205
Delay at Sebestei
207
Christmas in the desert
208
First news from the west
210
Return of Marschall
210
Departure from Sebestei
212
»Hotel Larson»
213
Important letters from our advance-parties
214
Walz's report
215
Mühlenweg's adventures
216
Haslund's letter
218
Haude's report
218
The first settlement in Sinkiang
221
From Miao-erh-ku to Hami by cart
222
IX. IN HAMI
223
The reception
223
The Mohammedan king
225
Falcon hunt
226
Ceremonial dinners
227
The town
228
Tso Tsung-t'ang's temple
229
Altunluq-mazar
229
The currency
230
Hummel's practice
230
The parting from our Mongols
231
X. THE JOURNEY FROM HAMI TO URUMCHI
232
Into the T'ien-shan
234
Pichan
235
Ruins of a vanished culture
236
Important geographic information
237
Turfan
238
Into the T'ien-shan again
239
Over the passes at Davan-ch'eng
240
Arrival at Urumchi
241
XI. IN URUMCHI
242
Meeting with Governor Yang
242
Yang's dinner
245
Another official dinner
246
Detached expeditions leave
247
Visit by Yang
247
Discussion of aviation
248
Foreigners in Urumchi
248
Hummel at work
250
Dinner for Yang
250
New detached parties leave
251
Cancelling of aviation plans
251
Farewell dinner
252
Departure from Urumchi
253
XII. A VISIT TO STOCKHOLM
254
By motor-car from Urumchi to Chuguchaq
254
From Chuguchaq to Zaisang-nor
255
With river-boat from Zaisang-nor to Omsk
255
Home
258
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CONTENTS
PART II
LIST OF MEMBERS
XI
LIST OF PLATES
XIII
LIST OF FIGURES IN THE TEXT
XV
I. EVENTS IN URUMCHI
1
At headquarters
1
Recognition of Kuomintang in Sinkiang
2
Murder of Yang
3
Who was the murderer?
4
II. BACK TO SINKIANG
6
Arrangements in Sweden
6
Semipalatinsk
7
From Semipalatinsk to Chuguchaq by car
8
The Russo-Chinese frontier
11
III. DELAY IN CHUGUCHAQ
12
Ambolt's illness
14
Hummel's arrival
16
IV. THROUGH DZUNGARIA
18
Hsi-hu
20
Manas
21
V. IN URUMCHI
23
Arrival
23
Dettmann's departure for home
24
Norin's and Haslund's start
24
The first visit to Chin Shu-jen
25
Disquieting rumours from the Kansu frontier
26
Arrival of Hummel and Ambolt
27
Increasing obstruction to the expedition
27
Dinner party at the Governor-General's
30
Consessions from Chin
31
Haude's return
31
Hempel leaves for home
31
Professor Yuan's discoveries
32
Dinner for the Chinese officials
33
Government subsidy granted for the expedition
33
Insecurity in the streets
34
Visit from the prince of the Altai Mongols
34
Aversion to anthropometric measurements
35
Bergman's return
35
Fresh attacks against the expedition
36
The last days in Urumchi
38
VI. FROM URUMCHI TO PEKING
40
The start from Urumchi
40
The bus journey from Urumchi to Chuguchaq
40
In Chuguchaq
42
By sledge from Chuguchaq to Sergiopol
43
From Sergiopol to Peking by train
44
VII. IN CHINA PROPER
46
In Peking
46
Meeting with our committee
46
A lecture to the students
47
Illness
48
Visit to Nanking
49
Threat of new civil war
50
Visit to Chiang Kai-shek
50
Telegram from the Government to Chin Shu-jen
51
Shanghai
52
Hangchow
53
Soochow
55
Bohlin joins the expedition in Peking
57
Illness
57
New attacks on the expedition
58
VIII. AMERICAN INTERLUDE
60
Departure from Peking
60
In Boston
60
Bad news from Sinkiang
61
Vincent Bendix
61
Two months in Sweden
63
Back to China
64
IX. BY CAR THROUGH INNER MONGOLIA
67
From Peking to Mongolia
67
The camp of the Gobi-group
67
Visit to Batu-khalagh-sume
70
The start from Batu-khalagh-sume
71
Hunting Lama temples
71
Shara-muren-sume
72
Durbet Wang's residence
72
Deva Gung
72
Gapshilin-sume
73
Sunit Wang's residence
74
Khadain-sume
75
Tashi Lama's tour of Mongolia
75
Gul-chaghan
77
Arban-tabune-sume
78
Boro-tologoin-sume
78
Doyen
79
Naiman-ul
80
On the great Urga road
80
Epi-khalkha
81
Hei-ma-hu
82
Towards Kalgan
82
In Kalgan
82
Mühlenweg's arrival
83
Zimmermann's return
83
Haude's arrival
84
Leaving Kalgan
86
X. SIX MONTHS IN PEKING
87
Temple negotiations
87
Ethnographic purchases
89
Haslund leaves the expedition
89
News from the field-groups
90
Birthday celebrations
91
Plans for a Swedish Institute of Research
91
The political situation
92
Larson leaves the expedition
93
Hummel's botanical journey
93
We move into a Chinese house
95
New plan for the acquisition of the temples
96
XI. CHRONICLE OF THE EDSEN-GOL STATION
98
Trouble brewing
98
Wild camels
100
Unrest and suspense
101
Fresh troubles
101
Wolves
102
Summer
103
Söderbom's adventures in Kansu
103
Söderbom and Ma back at the Edsen-gol
107
Ma's tragedy
108
Söderbom's adventures with robbers
112
Zimmermann's return-journey
114
Söderbom's return-journey
114
XII. FROM PEKING TO JEHOL BY CAR
116
Into the mountains
117
Through the Great Wall
118
»The Emperor's Road»
118
XIII. JEHOL
121
The Imperial Summer Palace
121
The Potala
123
The Hsin-kung
132
The visit of the third Tashi Lama
133
The Ta-fo-ssu
136
The Ili-miao
138
The P'u-lo-tien
139
The Shu-hsiang-ssu
140
The Lo-han-t'ang
141
The Temple of Confucius
141
Our work at the Potala
142
The fate of the Jehol temples
142
Preparations for the return to Peking
144
XIV. BY BOAT DOWN THE LUAN-HO
145
Summer rain in the mountains
147
Escort increased
147
Rapids
148
Magnificent scenery
150
Entering the Great Wall
150
Out of the mountains
150
An unpleasant encounter
152
Through »The Devil's Mouth»
152
The last day on the river
154
Over the plain
155
XV. ANOTHER SIX MONTHS IN PEKING
157
News from our workers in the field
157
Professor Lessing
158
Further projects
159
The political situation
159
Travelling plans
160
Economic position of the expedition
160
The Peking Man
161
Shadow plays
162
Summer weather
162
Important news
163
Preparations for the car-journey to Bergman
164
Montell's and Söderbom's departure
165
Rain
165
Letter from Bohlin
166
Manufacturing the Chicago temple
166
We move into a new house
167
The city
167
Return of Huang and Ting
169
Peking changes masters
171
The relations with our Chinese
171
Return of Montell and Söderbom
171
Our postage stamps
172
Plan for a revival of the Silk Road
173
A committee meeting
174
Hummel's return
175
Robber band north of Kuei-hua
175
Christmas 1930
176
January storm
176
Haude's new expedition
176
Departure from Peking to Stockholm
177
XVI. IN SWEDEN
178
Question of the grant
178
Sad news from Central Asia
179
Haslund to Stockholm
179
Hörner's Lop-nor journey
179
The attack on Bexell's camp
180
Exhibition of the ethnographical collections
183
Reply from Governor Chin
183
To the U. S. A.
183
XVII. IN CHICAGO
184
Mounting of the temple
184
The interior of the temple
187
The Chinese arena
189
The Citroën expedition
189
Our own expedition
190
Georg Söderbom in Chicago
192
Leaving Chicago
192
XVIII. WINDING UP THE GREAT EXPEDITION
193
In Peking again
193
The Japanese advance
193
Return of Norin and Bohlin
194
The Japanese approaching Peking
194
An old diplomatist
195
Bohlin leaves
196
Moving to a new house
196
Return of Hörner and Chen
196
Culmination of the Japanese advance
197
Hunting for a Buddha image
198
Anxiety for Ambolt
198
The expedition's finances
200
Hörner goes home
200
Dr Arne's Iranian expedition
200
First trans-Asiatic flight by Captain Lutz
201
XIX. COURSE OF CIVIL WAR IN SINKIANG
202
XX. PREPARING A NEW EXPEDITION
208
A significant meeting
208
In Nanking
210
Conditions for motor-expedition
211
Back in Peking
212
Prince Carl Junior in Peking
212
Staff of motor-expedition complete
213
Preparations
214
The page image of this table of contents
CONTENTS
PART III
LIST OF MEMBERS
XI
LIST OF PLATES
XIII
LIST OF FIGURES IN THE TEXT
XV
I. PRELIMINARIES FOR THE MOTOR JOURNEY
1
Leaving Peking
1
A disaster in Kuei-hua
1
Preparations in Kuei-hua
3
Political conditions
3
Return of Bexell
4
Earlier car-journeys to the interior of Asia
5
II. FROM KUEI-HUA TO THE EDSEN-GOL
8
The Kuei-hua pass
8
A tiresome night
9
At Arash's camp
10
At Batu-khalagh-sume
11
Visit to the Sunit Wang
12
Visiting the Tashi Lama
12
The mapping
13
On the old road again
13
A serious accident
15
With diminished convoy
16
Halt at Unyen-usu
18
On the move again
21
Visit in a caravan-tent
22
The beginning of the northern road
22
A pilgrims' party
23
Snow
24
Yingen-khuduk
25
Söderbom catches us up
26
Over the gravel wastes
27
III. ON THE EDSEN-GOL
29
Christmas 1933
29
Round Sogho-nor
30
Rest days at Baller
32
Petrol supply
33
News from China
34
The Khalkha refugees
34
Visit to the Torgut prince
35
Return of the couriers
35
Leaving Bailer
36
The Mören-gol
37
IV. FROM THE EDSEN-GOL TO HAMI
38
An accident with truck »Edsel»
39
Through the Black Gobi
41
Dambin Lama's castle
43
Ming-shui and its ruin
45
The highest part of the Pei-shan
46
Making for the Qarliq-tagh
47
The easternmost villages of Sinkiang
48
Border guards
50
Underground canals
51
Hami
51
Dinner with bath
53
The ruined palace of Shah Maqsud
54
Our escort
56
V. FROM HAMI TO KORLA
58
In Turfan
62
Some dubious characters
63
The upper ten of Turfan
64
Rumours about Ma Chung-ying
65
Birthday celebrations
66
Leaving Turfan
68
Crossing the Chöl-tagh
70
The defile at Arghai-bulaq
71
Through burning villages
73
Qara-shahr
75
The crossing of the Khaidu-gol
77
From Qara-shahr to Korla
78
Arrival in Korla
80
Plan for a river journey
81
VI. IN THE GRIP OF THE WAR
82
A ghastly night
83
On the trail of Georg
89
Georg's adventures
91
Turning back
93
Bugur
94
Back to Korla
95
Trying to get away
98
The attack
99
As Ma's captives
101
Ma requisitions the lorries
104
Air bombing
105
An anxious night
107
Ma's soldiers loot Korla
108
Between victors and vanquished
111
Entry of the northern army
112
Cross-examined by the Russians
113
Prisoners again
115
General Bekteev
117
Tedious days
120
First sign of life from the drivers
120
The end of our captivity
123
Return of the lorries
125
Georg's and Effe's tale
126
VII. BY CANOE TO LOP-NOR
134
Setting out from Korla
134
Konche
135
Dividing into two parties
135
Fitting out the flotilla
136
Start with the canoes
137
Our first day on the Konche-darya
138
The winding river
140
»Yellow storm»
143
Sai-cheke, the meeting-place
143
Final splitting of the expedition
144
Volume of water
145
Tributaries from the Tarim
147
Rapids
147
Temenpu, the place of bifurcation
149
Down the Qum-darya
150
Rendez-vous in the desert
153
Plan for motor exploration
154
Plan for Bergman's work
156
Continuing eastward
156
Rapids
158
In the yardang country
159
The head of the delta
160
Storm
161
A ruined house
162
In the maze of the delta
163
An ancient grave
165
A single grave
167
Remains of an old structure
169
Another single grave
169
Into blind alleys
171
In the northernmost part of the delta
171
The isolation of Lop-nor
176
Dividing the party
177
Out onto the lake
179
The second day on the shallow lake
181
The new Lop-nor
183
More graves
185
A ruined fortress
186
Towards Lou-lan
186
Chen's walk to the Lou-lan site
187
Falling water-level
190
The end of the boat journey
190
Arrival of the rescue party
191
Good-bye to Lop-nor
192
Through the Quruq-tagh by car
194
Back in base camp No. 70
196
Arrival of Hummel
197
Leaving for Korla
198
Chen's work on the Qum-darya
198
VIII. A DASH TO URUMCHI
202
Along the Quruq-tagh
202
In Korla again
203
The Qara-shahr Torgut prince
204
From Qara-shahr to Urumchi
205
Arrival in Urumchi
206
IX. IN URUMCHI
207
Meeting Sheng Tupan
208
Old acquaintances
209
Our position improves
209
Peculiar conditions in Urumchi
211
An upsetting letter from Hummel
213
An unexpected meeting
215
A violent thunderstorm
216
Caught up by Hummel
218
Back in Urumchi
219
Earthquake
221
Hummel and Bergman leave for Sweden
221
Sinkiang shilly-shallying
222
Calumny and intrigue
223
Arrival of the lorries
225
The archaeological collections cause us trouble
225
High and low spirits in Urumchi
226
Examination of our luggage
227
Sports events
229
Illness
230
Ready to leave
230
X. FROM URUMCHI TO ANHSI
232
Hami
232
Across the Pei-shan
234
Anhsi
236
XI. TO LOP-NOR FROM THE EAST
238
Anhsi ― Tun-huang
239
Tun-huang
240
The Caves of the Thousand Buddhas
241
Return to Tun-huang
242
Preparing the Pei-shan tour
243
We turn north
244
Turning west through the Pei-shan
247
A robber band
248
»Camel Well»
250
The sand-dunes of the Ghashun-gobi
251
Stay at Lo-t'o-ching
252
A new push to the west
255
The eastern border of the Lop depression
259
The Lop-nor depression
262
Turning back east
263
XII. ALONG THE IMPERIAL HIGHWAY
265
Leaving Anhsi
265
Christmas 1934
266
Yü-men
267
The western end of the Great Wall
268
Arrival in Suchow
269
A southern road to Kao-t'ai
271
Kanchow
275
Along the Great Wall
278
Liangchow
281
Through perilous mountain regions
283
The Wu-ch'iao-ling pass
286
P'ing-fan
287
Along sunk roads
288
Lanchow
289
The real loess country
290
Through the robber regions
293
Across the Liu-p'an-shan
294
The end of the road
296
XIII. THE END
298
By rail to Nanking
298
Friends and foes in Nanking
299
The president and the generalissimo
303
Final settlement of the motor-car expedition
305
Peking
306
Home
309
Addenda et corrigenda
313
GENERAL INDEX
315
Personal names
315
Geographical names
323
Index of subjects
332
Chronological table
339
List of camps 1927―28
340
List of camps 1933―35
342
Note on the map
345
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