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0162 Sino-Iranica : vol.1
Sino-Iranica : vol.1 / Page 162 (Grayscale High Resolution Image)

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doi: 10.20676/00000248
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336   SING-IRANICA

1 by Cou Mi TM V (123o-132o), who makes the following observation: "As regards the red variety of the fun sien flower (Impatiens balsamina), the leaves are used, being pounded in a mortar and mixed with a little alum.' The finger-nails must first be thoroughly cleaned, and then this paste is applied to them. During the night a piece of silk is wrapped around them, and the dyeing takes effect. This process is repeated three or five times. The color resembles that of the yen-ci (Basella rubrum) . Even by washing it does not come off, and keeps for fully ten days. At present many Mohammedan women are fond of using this cosmetic for dyeing their hands, and also apply it to cats and dogs for their amusement." The Pen ts`ao kan mu quotes only the last clause of this text. From what Cou Mi says, it does not appear that the custom was of ancient date; on the contrary, it does not seem to be older than the Sung period.

None of the early Pen ts`ao makes mention of Lawsonia. It first appears in the Pen ts`ao kan mu. All that Li Si-den is able to note amounts to this : that there are two varieties, a yellow and a white one, which bloom during the summer months; that its odor resembles that of mu-si * f (Osmanthus fragrans); and that it can be used for dyeing the finger-nails, being superior in this respect to the fun sien flower

(Impatiens balsamina). Cerra Kan-cun    I, an author of the Sung
period, mentions the plant under the name i hian hwa A t- 4E ("flower of peculiar fragrance ").

It has generally been believed hitherto that the use of henna and the introduction of Lawsonia into China are of ancient date; but, in fact, the evidence is extremely weak. In my opinion, as far as the employment of henna is concerned, we have to go down as far as the Sung period. It is noteworthy also that no foreign name of ancient date, either for the plant or its product, is on record. F. P. SMITH and STUART

parade the term   hai-na (Arabic hinnâ) without giving a reference.
The very form of this transcription shows that it is of recent date: in

fact, it occurs as late as the sixteenth century in the Pen tstao kan mu,3 then in the K`iün fan p`u of 16304 and the Nun cen ts`üan §u. A

published in 1619 by Sü Kwan-k`i   Ye PAC, the friend and supporter
of the Jesuits. It also occurs in the Hwa kin of 1688.5

It is well known what extensive use of henna (Arabic hinnâ, hence

1 0   ±, p. 17 (ed. of Pai hai).

2 In this manner the dye is also prepared at present.

3 Ch. 17 B, p. 12 b.

4 Kwan k`ün fan peu, Ch. 26, p. 4 b. The passages of the first edition are especially indicated.

5 Ch. 5, p. 23 b.