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0160 Innermost Asia : vol.2
Innermost Asia : vol.2 / Page 160 (Color Image)

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doi: 10.20676/00000187
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Designs of printed and ` resist 'dyed silks.


we find introduced pairs of confronting beasts, along with arcades of cloud scroll and fret columns curiously reminiscent of a Han silk from the Tun-huang Limes and of a warp-rib' fabric of archaic type from Chien-fo-tung.40 Reasons of technique explain why only ` geometric ' patterns, all of a simple character, are to be found in the gauzes ; three of them show a small lozenge diaper closely resembling a gauze from Chien-fo-tung.41 The rainbow-coloured gauze, vi. 03 (Pl. LXXVII', a piece of very fine weaving, stands by itself.

Among the silks decorated by printing or dyeing both floral and geometric designs are represented. Patterns of the former type are seen not only in the block-printed silks i. 7. oI ; x. I. 04 (Pl. LXXXII), which show a tendency towards naturalistic treatment, but also in the dyed piece ix. 2. 012 (Pl. LXXXII), produced by ` resist ' method applied freehand. In the other specimens of silks dyed by this method the patterns consist of lozenges and circles formed with spots.42 As regards the pattern thus produced in vi. 2. 04 ; 3. 03, 07 (Pl. XXXVI, LXXVIII), it is of interest to note that it occurs also on the Lou-lan figured silk L.C. of (Pl. XXXV), with a slight variation accounted for by the weave. Finally in vi. 1. oI, 02 (Pl. LXXXVI) we have an ` all-over ' pattern of knot-dyed spots.



Ast. i. I. 01. Fr. of figured silk from face-cover (a) ; circular, cut from larger piece and surrounded by pleated plain silk.

Byzantine pattern consisting of circle of discs, interrupted at cardinal points by a square, five discs in each quadrant. Within circle a conventional, bisymmetrical tree with large half-open flower in profile at top, broad flat centre stem rising from label, placed across base and ornamented with five small circles. On either side of central stem a branch springs curving spirally downwards, bearing vine (?) leaves and berries and terminating in a flower.

Colouring : Discs buff on dark blue. Field dark buff, stems light buff, leaves bright green, veined yellow. Central flower, yellow, green and blue. Twill weave. Rev. lining thin felt and fine plain silk, to which frs. of coarse brown hair adhere. All much perished, faded, and extremely brittle. Cf. Ast. i. 3. b. ox. Diam. of circle about 7i,", Pl, LXXX.

Ast. i. I. oz. Frs. of painted silk, similar to Ast. i. 2. 03. Very brittle.

Ast. i. I. 02. a. Fr. of silk damask (found with Ast. i. 1. 02). Pattern, a trellis formed of elongated hexagons. Within each, at each end, an equilateral hexagon of which two sides are formed by the short (end) sides of the enclosing hexagon. Within small hexagon a rhombus, with its sides parallel to four of the sides of hexagon. Between the two small hexagons and the long sides of enclosing hexagon, two rhombuses, same size as end ones and symmetrically

40 See T. xv. a. iii. ooio and Ch. 00118, Serindia, iv. Pl. LV ; ii. p. 963.

41 With i. 7. 04 : hi. 2. OI ; X. I. 02 (Pl. XXXVI), cf. Serindia, iv. Pl, CXX, Ch. 00344 ; other gauzes are iii. 2. 02 ;

spaced. These and field of small hexagons are woven `tabby', remainder in twill. Silk of two colours shaded one into the other—dark green and golden brown, with traces of blue. Perhaps originally one colour (blue ?), now faded and discoloured. Finely woven. Very ragged and fragile ; c. 6" x 4". Pl. XLIII.

Ast. i. I. 03. Pottery jar ; wheel-made, grey body, flat-bottomed and high-shouldered, drawing in to small neck above, and expanding again at once to everted rim. Outside painted black, with design outlined in lines of dull grey : band round middle, and series of blunt-ended petals above and below, pointing respectively downwards and upwards to band. Design brought out prominently by bands of large round white spots, following outlines. Broad red stripe also down centre of each petal, and round inside and sloping outer edge of rim. Very coarse decoration of same kind found on most Astana pottery. Good condition. Empty. H. 8", gr. diam. 6e", diam. of mouth 3".

Ast. f. I. 04. Pottery goblet ; oval cup (wheel-made) with everted rim, joined to spreading circular foot (broken). Grey body, hard fired, with traces over whole of white spot decoration on black, same as on i. I.03, but almost all flaked off. Band of red inside rim. H. 51-", diam. of mouth 4i", of waist xi', of base 34".

Ast. i. I. 05. Pottery goblet ; shallow bowl-shaped cup with out-turned rim, and very slightly expanding twelve-sided pedestal turning into circular bevelled foot. Painted black, white, and red, in same style of decoration as Ast.

vi. 3. 09 ; ix. 2. 016 (Pl. XXXVI).

42 See ii. 1. 014-15 ; vi. 2. 04 ; vi. 3. 03, 07 in Pl. XXXVI, LXXVIII.