Across Asia : vol.1 / Page 213 (Grayscale High Resolution Image)

0213	Across Asia : vol.1

RECORDS OF THE JOURNEY

The Superior of the Kura lamasery and some of the boys being trained as lamas.

Before we left yesterday I was able to attend a lama service. None of the senior prelates April gth.

was present. Only three lamas sat along the wall near the entrance, draped in their long Camp at

yellow robes and pointed capes. At certain points during the service they rose and walked Bugra.

with solemn steps a little way between the pillars towards the altar. A yellow headgear

with a tall comb, something between a cock's comb and an ancient helmet, played some

part in these »sorties». At times it was placed on the head, at others it was closed like an

opera hat and was held lying against the breast. Profound obeisance, with the brow

touching the floor, was only made by one, presumably the senior. About 3o boys sat on

the benches between the pillars and in the front of each row an older man, who seemed

to conduct the singing of the boys and lamas, if it can be called singing. This vocal part of

the programme was carried out mostly in a subdued voice, but changed at times into

a loud fortissimo, when everyone appeared to strain his lungs. I thought that in some

parts the singing had some resemblance to a Greek-Orthodox service. One of the older

men on the boys' flank performed some kind of manipulations with grains of corn which always

produced a certain sensation. After a piece performed on two big drums, a couple of metal

plates and trumpets with a beautiful clear tone, some relaxation set in and immediately

afterwards I mounted my horse. At a certain point two older ministering spirits handed

round rough loaves, the size of a man's fist, two to each person, and a little later they

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