white pinnacles out of a sca of clouds. For the first time I was able at 35' from Kura to distinguish the pyramid or sugar-loaf shaped head of Khan Tengri dominating the sur-
rounding mountains. The group of mountains that encircles Togra mus and Mus dawan also appears impressive in height, towering above the adjacent mountains. It is 36oc or due S of Kura. The snow ceased towards morning and it had turned fine The air was still rather cold, however, and a cold east wind accompanied us during our three hours' ride to Khargontu.
Nasumbatoff's big yurt was much simpler than last time, no bright banners and his wife much dirtier. A kind of brandy made of milk played an important part in the entertainment. It was served lukewarm. Nasumbatoff and a couple of guests indulged freely in the drink and emptied one silver tumbler after another. Our mutual gifts acquired serious dimensions on this occasion. He presented me with a large horse, lymphatic in my opinion, and I gave him a new Berdan rifle and a few boxes of cartridges which represent the approximate value of a horse in these parts. The traditional sheep was recompensed by mirrors, knives and sweets for his wife and children.
Drunkenness seems to be general among the Kalmuks. Besides Nasumbatoff and his brother I noticed two other drunken men in his small camp.
It does not appear to be the law among the Kalmuks that the third son of each famil} should become a lama, but it is a general rule that, when there are two or more sons, one of them is brought up in the monastery. A lama is held in great respect among these god-fearing people and it is much increased, if he makes the long and difficult pilgrimage to Lhassa. Among about 5000 yurts of the Surgan summun there are about 500 lamas. The boys, who are brought up in the lamasery, wait on the lamas and are taught during t heir leisure hours. Those, who show any aptitude for it devote themselves entirely tc
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