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0709 Across Asia : vol.1
アジア横断 : vol.1
Across Asia : vol.1 / 709 ページ(カラー画像)

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doi: 10.20676/00000221
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RECORDS OF THE JOURNEY

The landscape we passed through on to-day's 6o li was of the same character as yester- July 2nd.

day. Long, gentle slopes and very slightly marked valleys, occasionally at the bottom Soping.

a slight water-channel, often inclined to be marshy. Two or three conical hills raised

their pointed peaks not far from the road independently of the surrounding long ridges.

Here and there a hill was surmounted by the ruins of a tuntai tower. They were said to

have been built at the same time as the Great Chinese Wall. A distinct dark chain of

mountains still extended in the N and NE at an angle to the road.

The villages were small and did not look prosperous. Clay was the only building material

apart from the necessary beams and poles. There were few tilled fields, at the beginning

of the journey practically none. No woods. Even in the villages a solitary tree was an

exception. The direction of the road was NW and NNW, mostly the latter. After 5 li

Hwa tsun with 70-80 houses, 15 li Liu chang pu with io and at zo li Santsaku with

io. Soon after the road began to climb a slightly more pronounced chain of large, dune-

like hills, coming from the mountains in the NE and N and running in a SSW direction.

At the village of Hwantupu (251i) with 40 houses we reached the crest of the chain. Baro-

meter No. 1624.9. The village was built in two groups on either side of the ruins of the brick

wall of a fortified village. The road descended along a valley running NW. After 35 li

the village of Sachiapu with 15 houses and 40 li Hwantualia with 15. Here, too, the

ruins of a village wall were visible. Both were said to have been built during the reign of

the Emperor Wan Te. Jo li beyond we reached a wider valley with some scattered villages

embedded in clumps of shady trees. Further west, on the other side of the valley, another

chain rose up parallel to the one we had crossed. In the N the wall of Soping was visible.

We reached it after covering another to li.

On the way we met another 2 or 3 long processions of Mongol pilgrims, both men

and women, a variegated crowd, some with packs tied to their backs, others riding don-

keys, mules, horses and camels. Here and there we passed arbahs carrying coal from the

neighbourhood of Tsoyüng hsien. It is sold at Soping at a little over 2 cash per djin.

I was told that coal was carted from there as far as Kweihwa ting.

Soping is supposed to have been called Yu pinfu originally and the town is still called

so by a large part of the population. It stands on the plain not far from a small, long hill

rising in the NE. The wall is going to ruin. Storms have swept such masses of sand and

earth, now covered with grass, against its E and N parts that it is easy to walk up them.

Soping is another of the places where a great deal of innocent blood was shed during the

Boxer rising. 13 Europeans obeyed the order of the local Manchurian mandarin to proceed

to Peiping under military escort. They had scarcely got outside the gates of the town before

they were turned out of their carts and stoned to death by the crowd and the military escort.

to Swedes and 3 Americans (t a child) perished here. Scared by the European guns,

which unfortunately did not get to this place, the Chinese authorities made haste to pretend

to bury those of the 13 bodies that could be found, outside the E gate. Blocks of stone with

Chinese inscriptions have been put up over the graves. Their devoted, noble work and

horrible death deserved an inscription in their own language. The Chinese names are

unrecognisable. If I recollect rightly, one of them, whose name was Larsson, was dubbed

) 703 (