We reached the town of Yangkao hsien after travelling 30 li. For the last 7 or 8 miles a river, 15 feet wide, wound on the left of the road. Shortly before, we passed a small cemetery, enclosed by a wall, the crosses indicating that it was Christian. The more or less authentic bones of martyrs, who perished in the Boxer rising, probably rest there. The town is built in the form of a square and is surrounded by a dilapidated wall with 3 buttresses between the gates and the corners. Each buttress is surmounted by a brick tower falling into ruin. The area round it is open and unprotected. The population of the town is said to amount to about 3,000 tja, exclusively Chinese. The houses are dilapidated, the streets dirty and the shops poor. Small piles of logs on the pavement outside the houses indicate that the surrounding woods are made use of. The average crop in the district is said to be io fold. It is remarkable in this locality that opium growing is entirely forbidden. The mandarin is reported to have made trips to convince himself that his orders were being obeyed and to have had the plants pulled up in the fields in which poppies had been sown -- a unique case in Shansi.
The mountains in the S looked considerably higher than before. After 50 li Ehrshih-li-pu with wo houses. There and at Yangkao hsien the same crops are grown as at Wanguar chung. Per ioo tja there are 15 oxen, ioo horses and 20-30 donkeys. — We crossed the river on the left. It flowed in 2 arms, 14 and 7 feet wide and fairly shallow. After 58 li another dry river bed, going S, with a good many trees. After 6o li San-shihli-pu with 200 houses, 70 li Ehr-shih-li-pu with 15o. We crossed a small river. At 75 li we came to Shih-li-pu. The valley had grown much narrower and was now probably not more than 7 miles in width. The mountains in the N were mighty, and those in the S also considerable. In front of us we caught sight of the town of Tien chen hsien. Lower mountains rose up behind it and closed the valley entirely. Sparse villages and trees could be seen in the distance grouped close to the mountains. During the whole journey we passed a number of dry river beds and slightly marshy places, more pronounced close to the town. The road was soaked by the rain; wheel-tracks deep.
After 83 li Chihlitu, an insignificant village. After go li Tien chen hsien, a town of the same size as Yangkow, i.e., with 3 buttresses between gates and corners and a wall in good condition. The surrounding area open, without any protection. The river 1/3 of a mile to the N; we had to cross it again a few miles before getting to the town (40 feet wide). The population is said to amount to about 4,000 tja. — There are no restrictions on opium growing. The tax is 3,3-2 taels per mou according to the quality of the soil. Opium and accessories for smoking are sold, but there are no places for smoking. — Millet, gaolyan, tchumiza, shuza, peas, mustard, hemp, red kunsjut, wheat, opium, rice and potatoes are grown. Average crop 8 fold. — Snow from the gth to the 3rd month, up to 5 inches in depth. N storms are prevalent in spring
July 18th. We started this morning in pouring rain. The main direction during the 8o li to-day
Hwaianhsien. was ENE. Occasionally the road went ESE for a time, then again more to the north. The first 4 li were along a narrow water bed with little water. After 8 li we crossed a fairly broad river bed that was practically dry. The village of Tochiatun, with ioo houses, lay
726 (
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