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The Heart of a Continent : 1 Volume
CONTENTS
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CONTENTS
CHAPTER I. THE EVER-WHITE MOUNTAIN.
1
My first journey to Dharmsala
Robert Shaw
Preparations for an extended journey
Mr. H. E. M. James
Decision to go to Manchuria
Arrival at Newchwang
“The Ever-White Mountain”
To Mukden
Chinese inquisitiveness
Tomb of Nurhaden
To the Yalu River
Want of milk and butter
Industry of Chinese colonists
We enter the great forest
Mosquitoes
Sable hunters
The Sungari River
Its sources
I reach the summit of the “Ever-White Mountain”
Kirin
Chinese dinners
Chinese manners
CHAPTER II. MANCHURIA TO PEKING.
22
Start for Tsi-tsi-har
The Sungari again
Luxury of milk and cream
The Mongolian and Chinese frontier
Return to cultivation
Hulan
Torturing of Père Conraux
Pei-lin-tzu
A pattern mission station
Sansing
A Chinese fort and guns
Ninguta
Chinese carts and carters
The Russian frontier
Hunchun
Transport of Krupp guns
General I
A Russian frontier post
Cossacks
Colonel Sokolowski
Russian hospitality
Novo-kievsk
The Corean frontier
England and Russia
CHAPTER III. BACK TO PEKING.
42
We turn our faces homewards
Kirin
Hsiao Pa-chia-tzu
The Roman Catholic mission
To Mukden
14° below zero
Winter traffic
Mongolian ponies
A frozen mist
The Scottish mission at Mukden
Its medical work
Return to Newchwang
My indebtedness to Mr. James
Remarks on Manchuria
Its products and people
Christmas Day in a Chinese inn
Shan-hai-kuan
The Great Wall of China
Compared with the Pyramids
Kaiping
A procession of corpses
British navvies
The Kaiping coal-mine
Mr. Kinder
How he constructed his locomotives
The first Chinese railway
Native superstitions and prejudices
Feng-shui
Tientsin
Ice-boat sailing
New Year's visits
Peking
CHAPTER IV. PEKING TO KWEI-HWA-CHENG.
58
Arrival of Colonel Bell
Preparations for an overland journey to India
Our different routes
Fascination of planning a journey
Start from Peking
My servant
Liu-san
The Great Wall at Kalgan
American medical mission
Views on opium-smoking
M. Ivanoff
A Chinese ex-naval officer
Chinese ignorance of geography
Agreements with carters
In the valley of the Yang-ho
The winds from the Mongolian plateau
Formation of cart-roads in the loess
Mules
We enter the “Land of Gog and Magog”
On the Mongolian plain
Yurts
Kindliness of the Mongols
Partridges
Chinese supplanting Mongols
Rapid changes of temperature
Arrival at Kwei-hwa-cheng
The China inland mission
Their system and hardships
How Chinese troops are levied
Mr. Clarke
Kwei-hwa-cheng
Its diminishing trade
Its temples
Mongol bazaar
Caravan-men
Preparations for crossing the Gobi Desert
Finding an auspicious date
My equipment
CHAPTER V. ACROSS THE GOBI DESERT.
78
My company
The guide
His extraordinary memory for wells
Ma-to-la
We start
The In-shan Mountains
Mongolian pastures
Encroachments of Chinese and Russians
Messrs. Collins & Co. of Tientsin
The Mongolian camel
Warnings of robbers
Liu-san and his revolver
Deer and the mode of killing them
Mongol temples
Aggressive ravens
Approaching the Sheitung-ula Mountains
A local tradition
The Ho-lai-liu stream
Deceptive distances
The heart of the Gobi Desert
Monotonous marches
Characteristics of the desert
Temperature and winds
Extracts from diary
Wild ponies
Elm trees
The Galpin Gobi
Hurricane and darkness
Partridges
The Hurku Hills
Bortson well
On Prjevalsky's track
A trading caravan
Uses of a Mongol boot
Valuable gifts
Mongol customs
A dust-storm
Curious sandhills
Their origin
Wind-formed sand
Mr. Barosakhai
The mountain system
Preparing for attack
A glass of sherry
Man-chin-tol
A “general hit out”
Slow progress
Glimpses of snow
Wild camels
Wild mules
The Altai Mountains
Refractory camels
Ma-te-la bolts home
A strange sunset
Mongol agriculture
Ula-Khutun
Origin of sloping gravel plains
Ovis argali
A glimpse of the Tian-shan
Desert of Zungaria
Ovis poli horns
Difficulties of Chinese language
A period of depression
A scorching wind
We enter Turkestan
Its inhabitants
Turki women
We cross the Tian-shan Mountains
An oasis
Last stage of desert journey
Arrival at Hami
CHAPTER VI. THROUGH TURKESTAN TO YARKAND.
123
Inquiries for Colonel Bell
Bazaar at Hami
A Russian merchant
I hire carts
A satisfactory arrangement
Start from Hami
A poor inn
Eurh-pu
The desert again
Tombs of mandarins
A dreary land
A cart as a bedroom
Chinese soldiers and their ways
“The great English nation”
We lose our way
Shi-ga-tai
Bad inns of Kashgaria
Pi-chan
A pleasant oasis
Curious holes
A Turki inn
Wells of Chinese soldiers
Arrival at Turfan
An Afghan merchant
A cross-examination
The Andijanis
The shops and wares
A Hajji
His experiences and his influence
Kokhandees
Living in holes
Description of Turfan
Toksun
A hard day's work
Kumesha
Karashar
Tunganis
Kalmak encampments
The Turks
Purchasing a pony
A rescued Mongol lady
Fords, ferries, and swamps
Hospitable Turks
Mosquitoes again
The worst carter in Asia
The art of cart-driving
Korlia
A reorganization
Doolans
Kuchê
Soldier thieves
A regular horse-dealer
Traces of Yakoob Beg
Kizil
Cultivated land
Aksu
Travelling merchants
Rahmat-ula-Khan
Ush Turfan
Memories of Robert Shaw
A Kirghiz encampment
Curious companions
Darning my stockings
Balls of curds
The Kara-kara Pass
The Syrt country
A captive eagle
Riding down eagles
Hostile Kirghiz
Rahmat-ula-Khan's diplomacy
His opinions on Russians and English
First sight of the Pamir Mountains
Artysh
Arrival at Kashgar
The Afghan aksakal
“Ropert”
MM. Petrovsky and Hendriks
Arrival and welcome at Yarkand
CHAPTER VII. INTO THE HEART OF THE HIMALAYAS.
170
Chinese Turkestan
Chiefly desert
Oases
A land of extremes
A people of imperturbable mediocrity
A suggestion from Colonel Bell
Preparations for the Mustagh Pass
Dalgleish's house
His characteristics
Robert Shaw
His career and fate
Chinese officials
Courtesy of the Amban
A sumptuous feast
My guide Wali
Start from Yarkand
Market days
Kugiar
Tupa Dawan Pass
The Pakhpu
Chiraghsaldi Pass
Danger of Kanjuti robbers
The Yarkand River
Karash-tarim—Raskam district
Disused smelting furnaces
Khoja Mohammed gorge
Surakwat stream
A bad day's march
Foretaste of severe cold
Elation of difficulty
The Aghil Pass
“The other side of the hill”
A stupendous scene
A precarious descent
The Oprang River
The Karakoram
Suget Jangal
K.2
CHAPTER VIII. THE MUSTAGH I'ASS.
188
A discouraging start
A precipice blocks the way
My Ladaki servant refuses descent of the precipice
Mountains of solid ice
My first glacier
Ice-caves
Scarcity of supplies
Difficulties of the ponies
A possible way out
My last pair of boots
In a sea of ice
The two Mustagh passes
A choice of evils
A critical stage
Intense cold at night
On the summit of the pass
Advantages of silence
A perilous ice-slope
Drogpa gives in
A sheer precipice to pass
Courage of my men
The last to descend
In safety once more
A glorious night scene
Crevasses
My last bottle of brandy broken
Baltoro Glacier
Suffering from want of boots
A ducking
We reach Askoli
Inhospitable reception
Start for the New Mustagh Pass
Superstitious dread of the mountains
Cornered between two glaciers
The Punmah Glacier
A rope bridge
Wali's fear
The Braldo River
The Shigar valley
Baltistan
The Baltis
A subject race
I take leave of Wali
M. Dauvergne
M. Notovitch
The Zoji-la Pass
The Sind and Kashmir valleys
Arrival at Srinagar
I try to civilize myself
Meeting with Captain Ramsay
Congratulations of Sir F. Roberts
To Murree and Rawal Pindi
Arrival of Liu-san and the ponies
CHAPTER IX. THE KANJUTI RAIDS.
214
Return of the exploring fever
Disappointment
Sudden order to go to Hunza
Hunza or Kanjut
A race of raiders
Sir Mortimer Durand
Abbottabad
I inspect my Gurkhas
Murree
Gurkhas are not horsemen
The Sind valley
Cheeriness of the Gurkhas
Zoji-la
We enter Ladak
Buddhist monasteries
Arrival at Leh
An old friend
Shukar Ali
Captain Ramsay
Kashmir sepoys
Baltis
A goatskin raft
Difficulties of transport
Coolies
Ponies
Donkeys
Camels decided on
Supplies
Start again
Khardung Pass
Mountain sickness
Nubra valley
Saser Pass
Depsang Plains
Karakoram Pass
Absence of snow
Dalgleish's murder
Suget Pass
Shahidula
A deputation of Kirghiz
Account of a Kanjuti raid
Characteristics of the Kirghiz
CHAPTER X. AMONG THE GLACIERS.
230
Waiting for the subsidence of the river
Bound for an unknown region
The Shimshal and Saltoro passes
Supplies arrive
Preparations for exploration
Start for Shahidula
Khal Chuskun
Sokh-bulak Pass
Kirghiz Jangal
Kulanuldi
In the valley of the Yarkand River
A swollen ford
Ruins at Karash-tarira
Minerals
Bazar Darra stream
Information about the Kuen-lun Mountains and their drainage
A climb to reconnoitre
Karul on the Surakwat
Tradition of Khoja Mohammed
The Aghil Pass
On new ground
In search of the Saltoro Pass
The Oprang valley
A wall of ice
View of Gusherbrum
Among the glaciers
Peculiar snow-clouds
Baffled
We reach the Saltoro Pass
A heavy snowstorm
An avalanche
A narrow escape
Forced to return to camp
The Sarpo Laggo valley
I lose the caravan
Magnesium-wire signals
Suget Jangal
In search of the Shimshal Pass
Mode of ascending glaciers
Very bad crevasses
A cul de sac
Comfortless quarters
Return to camp
Beautiful ice-forms
Glacier scenery
Crevasse Glacier
Return to Suget Jangal
CHAPTER XI. A KANJUTI STRONGHOLD.
254
Death of my pony
The Oprang River
Want of maps
We lose our bearings
Constant fordings
The pluck of the Gurkhas
Chang Jangal
A post at last
News from Hunza
Arrival of Turdi Kol at last
To Darwaza
A robbers' stronghold
The Gurkha naik claims his privilege
Plan of approach
A precarious position
A curious group
A peaceful ending
We advance
Hardships of the Hunza men
We cross the Shimshal Pass
A “pamir”
A letter from Safder Ali
We return to the Yarkand River
CHAPTER XII. BY THE SKIRTS OF THE PAMIRS TO HUNZA.
266
The Raskam River
Letters from Lieutenant Bower and Major Cumberland
I dispose of my ponies
Captain Grombtchevsky
His equipment
The Cossacks
Russian soldiers and their work
Inspection of my Gurkhas
Gurkhas and Cossacks
A pleasant incident
Kurba Pass
Taghdumbash Pamir
Ilisu
Kuch Mohammed Bey
I go to Tashkurgan
Major Cumberland and Lieutenant Bower
The Sarikolis
Fugitives from Shignan
The Taghdumbash Pamir
To the Khunjerab Pass
Ovis poli
Curious shining particles
A stalk
To the Mintaka Pass
Chinese official
Offended dignity
Dismissing my Kirghiz
Their greediness
We cross the Mintaka
Across the Indus watershed
An interesting valley
Misgah
A Hunza Arbap
His greed
Gircha
Visit from the Prime Minister, Wazir Dadu
Gulmit
A state reception
Safder Ali
I take a seat
A business interview
Safder Ali and Alexander the Great
The right to raid
A heated discussion
Firing exercises
An undignified ruler
I leave Gulmit
The fate of Safder Ali
Gilgit
Return to Kashmir
I take leave of my Gurkhas
CHAPTER XIII. TO THE PAMIRS - 1890.
291
Previous travellers in the Pamirs
My companion, Mr. George Macartney
Leh
Messrs. Beech and Lennard
We reach Yarkand
Unchanging character of Central Asian cities
Arrival of Captain Grombtchevsky
A curious dinner-party
We start for the Roof of the World
Tashkurgan
The Neza-tash Pass
The Little Pamir
Characteristics of a Pamir
Vegetation
Severity of the cold
The Kirghiz
Aktash
Across the Little Pamir
The Istigh River
Alichur Pamir
Ak-chak-tash
Hot springs
Ovis poli
Somatash
The inscribed stone at Bash Gumbaz
Scene of the conflict between the Russians and Afghans in 1892
Routes to the Alichur Pamir
The valley of the Aksu
Sarez
Murghabi
Russian outposts
The Akbaital
Rang-kul
The mysterious Lamp Rock
The mystery explained
To the Kara-kul Lake
Kizil Jek Pass
Kara-art Pass
Down the Markan-su to Opal
Arrival in Kashgar
Winter quarters
Chinese gongs
M. Petrovsky
CHAPTER XIV. A WINTER IN KASHGAR.
306
Official visits
The Chinese Taotai and general
A Chinese opinion of European civilization
General Wang
The barracks
Discipline and occupations of the soldiers
Rifle practice
Cosmopolitan Kashgar
Central Asian traders
Opinions of the Afghan Amir of British and Russian rule
Impressions of Russian power
Effects of our retirement from Afghanistan in 1881
M. Petrovsky
His views about England
About treatment of natives in India
About the Crimea
Russian carelessness about learning languages
M. Blanc
Dr. Sveyn Hedin
M. Dutreuil de Rhins
Subsequently murdered in Tibet
Père Hendriks
His accomplishments and privations
Arrival of Messrs. Beech and Lennard
A Christmas dinner
Monotony of life
Arrival of a post
Bad news and good
I am made a C.I.E.
Permission to return to India
Arrival of Lieutenant Davison
His adventures
We start together
A misunderstanding
CHAPTER XV. KASHGAR TO INDIA.
322
I take leave of Macartney
Departure from Chinese Turkestan
Its murky atmosphere
Pilgrimages to Mecca
The Gez defile
A temporary lake
Bulun-kul
I part from Lieutenant Davison
Little Kara-kul
A remarkable lake
A grand view
Tagarma plain
Tashkurgan again
Reports of Russian force on the Pamirs
Wakhijrui Pass
Bozai-Gumbaz
A party of Cossacks
Colonel Yonoff arrives
His mission
Tent of Russian officers
Compared with my own
A dinner-party
Surveying work done by the Russians
The Khora Bhort Pass
Exchange of information
Departure of the Russians
Colonel Yonoff returns to order me away
I consent under protest
Subsequent apology of Russian Government
I go to the Kukturuk valley
Lieutenant Stewart arrives with escort
Return of Lieutenant Davison
His treatment by the Russians
Among the mountains again
The watershed of the Indus and Oxus
The heart of Central Asia
The Panja River
Back to Bozai-Gumbaz
How to return to India ?
We find a pass
A snowstorm
A glacier
Instinct of the yak
An icy blast
Rough descent
The Karumbar River
Gilgit
Heavy snow on the Burzil Pass
A detachment of Gurkhas snowed up
Frost-bite
The Tragbal Pass
The valley of Kashmir
End of another journey
Death of Davison
CHAPTER XVI. CHITRAL AND HUNZA.
341
State of Hunza
Expedition against Safder Ali in 1892
I am sent to relieve Captain Stewart
British power in Border States
The policy of “punish and retire” not the best
Pacification of Hunza
British suzerainty
The true mode of dealing with petty chiefs
Loyalty of Hunza
Mohammed Nazim, successor of Safder Ali
My return to the country
Rakapushi Peak
Nilt, the scene of the gallant affair in 1892
Baltit
Meeting with Mohammed Nazim
Characteristics of the people
Winter preparations
Turning swords into ploughshares
News of trouble in Chitral
Death of the Mehtar
I am summoned by Colonel Durand
Account of Chitral
Aman-ul-Mulk and his sons
Rival claimants
Sher Afzul's successful attack
Nizam-ul-Mulk defeats him
Application for British aid
Our advance from Gilgit
Shandur Pass
Ghiza
Frost-bites
Mastuj
Description of Nizam-ul-Mulk
A popinjay
The Chitralis
Life in Chitral
The coming of spring
Excursions
Lessons in mountaineering
A mountain view
Characteristics of the country
CHAPTER XVII. CHITRAL AND HER RULERS.
357
Departure of Mr. Robertson and Lieutenant Bruce
The Mehtar and his associates
Illiterate but intelligent
Ideas and interests of the Chitralis
Travellers' tales
The Mehtar's visit to India and its effects
His system of government
Daily durbars
Summary justice
Meals
Conversational trials
The Mehtar's wonderful knowledge of his subjects
The Adamzadas
Federation of chiefs
Ignorant opposition to British rule
General Council of State
Absence of all secrecy
Progressive and reactionary parties
Governors of provinces
Rapid mode of administration
Compared with cumbrous methods of British Government
Living among the people
The Mehtar's love of sport
Desire to visit England
Reception in villages
Opinion of British officers
Impulsiveness of Chitralis
Ignorance of value of money
Hatred of work
I am removed to Mastuj, and leave Chitral
The death of Nizam-ul-Mulk
CHAPTER XVIII. THE MISSIONARY QUESTION IN CHINA.
377
Interest in the question of missions in China
Admirable work done by missionaries
Not all of equal merit
True and false missionaries
Statistics of converts no true test
Conversion
Growing and expanding work of Christianity
The Armenian atrocities and Asiatics
Spirit of Christianity and Asiatics
Fanatic missionaries
Elements of good in heathen religions
Universality of religion
Belief in a Great Spirit
Influence of persona character
Progress must be slow
CHAPTER XIX. IMPRESSIONS OF TRAVEL.
387
Impressions and reflections produced by travel
Nature's most important messages
Life in the Gobi Desert
Manifestations of Nature
Men's ideas influenced by their surroundings
Hunza
Conjectures of other worlds
The stored knowledge of civilization
Impressions produced by mountains
Their comparative sizes
The forests of Manchuria
The crowded haunts of men
Asiatic races
The goal of man's progress
Intellectual power of different races
Moral superiority
Dealings of Englishmen with natives
The power of sympathy
Tenacity of purpose
Lieutenant Fowler at Reshun
Development of man as a social being
Conclusion
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