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0143 Report of a Mission to Yarkund in 1873 : vol.1
Report of a Mission to Yarkund in 1873 : vol.1 / Page 143 (Color Image)

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doi: 10.20676/00000196
Citation Format: Chicago | APA | Harvard | IEEE

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(' 91. )

a shirt, loose in body and sleeves, usually of coarse cotton ; tambâl, trowsers loose and baggy, generally of cotton, and sometimes padded and quilted ; ishtdn, trowsers of a different material, such as silk or wool ; tambâl bagha, the trowsers-band round the waist; shim, overall trowsers, loose and baggy, generally of buff leather, embroidered with silk and edged below with fur usually lined with printed cotton, and open for six inches on the outside of each leg below ; otak, boot reaching to the knee, and of European pattern ; mask, goloshes or slippers worn over foot of boot in wet weather, left at the door on entering the house; kepish, (kafsh) a common shoe; Parlay, gloves of worsted or fur; dabkt, fur over-boot; pdypkk, a felt stocking worn inside the boot ; chapan, a loose long robe, open in front, with long sleeves, four or five sometimes worn one over other ; ton, a loose over-cloak. This and the preceding are usually of silk or printed cotton in bright colours and staring patterns; belwagh, waist- band or sash ; juba, fur coat, mostly of sheepskin. Soldiers wear besides the kamar, a leather waist-belt; to it are attached a multitude of the paraphernalia of their arms; they are collectively styled yaräe, and comprise powder-bag, tinder-box, shot-bag, flint-and-steel case, knife, hammer, priming pin, &c., &c.

The dress of the women consists of the following; betc, quilted cap, edged with fur ; ord bete, a high bonnet of mitre shape, usually of silk, and ornamented with a tassel and embroidery; talpac, fur cap or hat of sheepskin covered with gold brocade, and edged all round with a deep border of otter fur ; salla, a muslin turban folded into the shape of a high cap or hat, with the end hanging behind, or over one shoulder ; chumbal and chimat, different kinds of veil : they are square, and about fourteen inches each way, and are worn tied round the hat : they are mostly white, of wide lattice pattern, but some are black and of horse hair, just like the texture of a sieve ; k6mlak, shirt, or loose shift, of cotton or silk ; lambed, trowsers, loose and baggy ; tambeil pd chk, leggings, embroidered and edged with fur, worn attached to the trowsers so as to show below the upper robes; chapan, a loose frock, open in front ; lechak, a scarf or shawl of muslin or light gauze worn over other clothes without passing the arms through the sleeves ; kc peja, a mantle of white muslin like the last. These two are worn by young married women, who are called chaucc'n till they become matrons, when they are called juwkn, and wear by way of distinction the paraja, an over-cloak which has four bars of braid on the breast. Unmarried girls are called ayghachi, and dress as the chauckn. Otak, boot, similar to that worn by men ; kirm-otak, a shorter high-heeled boot, ornamented with gold and silk embroidery; ormada-otak, another kind of ornamented boot; kepish, shoes; payzkr-kepish, shoe or slipper, embroidered and ornamented; juba, fur coat. The dress of women differs little from that worn by the men, except in respect to head-dress and mantles, and the shim. Neither sex wear night clothes; they merely take off the boots, and go to sleep on the floor. Bedsteads, or the charpoy of India, are not known in the country. The rich have sleeping places in a corner of the room, where the cops (mattrass) is spread, with a kirgiz (felt) over it. The pillow is called tzkya, and the coverlet yotcan. In winter the bedding is spread upon the sandal, which is a wide platform supported on masonry parapets, or low walls, and heated by a fire of dry stable refuse which lies smouldering below.

Ornaments.—Very few are used except as additions to the garments, and only by the fair sex. They consist ordinarily of the earring=zira. It consists of a string of pearls and red coral beads strung together in alternation. Some wear these plaited into the back tresses ; they are then called chichanghac. The uzuc, or finger ring, is worn by both sexes; by men as a signet, and by women as an ornament; in the latter case the settings are the diamond, ruby, pearl, turquoise, &c. Women also wear a gold or silver wristlet, betuzûc; it is usually chased with ornamental patterns, and studded with pearls and rubies. No other ornaments are now usually seen, though in the time of the Chinese there was a great variety of gold and silver jewellery used, mostly as ornaments for the head ; but they have now entirely gone out of fashion. Women ornament the hair now only with the pearl and coral beads before mentioned. During girlhood, when they are called ciz or ayghachi, they have the head shaved over the crown, or as they grow older they wear the hair in a plain loose queue tied by a ribbon at the back of the head ; and so they wear it, as virgins, till married, when they plait it into two long three-ply tresses, which, with the aid of foreign locks are prolonged down the back nearly to the heels. As staid matrons they discard the aid of art, and are content to plait their natural locks into two short twists behind each ear.