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0351 Report of a Mission to Yarkund in 1873 : vol.1
Report of a Mission to Yarkund in 1873 : vol.1 / Page 351 (Color Image)

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doi: 10.20676/00000196
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  •  shortest ; it follows the course of the Toghra, a considerable stream which enters the Kârâkâsh nine miles below Shâhiddla. The floods of this stream in hot weather often detain travellers a considerable time on its banks. The Kilik Diwan (Pass) is crossed in the 3rd or 4th march from Shâhidûla, and after going over another low pass the road joins the Kugiar route at Beshterek, one day's march to the south of Karghâlik ; little is known of this road, but it is said that grass and wood are to be found at every stage. It was once much used by the Baltistan merchants who are settled in Yârkand.

Nearly three miles below where the Togra-su enters the Kârâkâsh River is the fort of Ali Nazar, where the Kilian road leaves the Karakash valley and passes up an open ravine in a north-west direction. This road is sometimes used in the summer as an alternative to that over the Sânjû Pass; it is somewhat higher than the Sânjû Pass, but, although impracticable for laden horses, is not so difficult to traverse. The Kilian pass is crossed in the second day after leaving the Kârâkâsh. The road follows the stream from the pass for four marches when it debouches into the Turkestan plain at the village of Kilian, two marches to the south of Bora on the road between Sanju and Karghâlik.*

The third and most frequented road from Shâhidûla is via Sânjû. It leaves the Kârâkâsh 20 miles below Shâhiddla at Mazâr Abû Bakar, from which place the road ascends to the summit of the Sânjû (also happily named "Grim") pass which, although not more than 16,700 feet above sea level, was decidedly the most difficult obstacle encountered by the mission on the road to Yârkand.t Its summit is never free from snow and ice, and is impassable by laden ponies. Yaks have always to be used and are collected from all quarters for the passage of a large caravan. From the pass the road descends to the Sânjû or Sarikia River, which it follows to the large and scattered village of Sânjû, on the borders of the Great Turkestan Plain. Occasionally in the hot season the Sânjû River is so flooded in its lower course as to become impassable, in which case a detour is made by a road which crosses a small spur by the Chuchu Pass (11,800 feet), after which it follows the Arpalek stream to near Sânjû. Thence a good and level road leads to Yârkand, a distance of 122 miles, and meets the Kilian route at Bora, and the Kilik and Kugiar routes at Karghâlik.

Returning now to the Changchenmo route from Leh to Turkestan, on this also the Kailas range has to be crossed, but further to the east than on the Karakorum route. The road ascends the Indus for 20 miles, and then goes up a tributary stream for 13 miles to Zingrâl, from which place the range may be crossed either by the Chang La (17,600 feet), or the Kay La (17,900 feet). By the former and easier road of the two it is 23 miles from Zingrâl to the large village of Tankse, situated on one of the tributaries of the Shyok River. By the Kay La foot passengers shorten the road by some six miles. The roads over both passes, although free from glaciers, are very dfficult ; and it is usual, although not absolutely necessary, to employ yaks in carrying goods across.

Tankse is the last place on this road where supplies are procurable, and is, by the shortest route, 350 miles from Sânjû, the first large village encountered in 'Turkestan. For the whole of this distance supplies of grain, both for men and horses, have to be carried, and at a great many halting places neither grass nor fire-wood is procurable. From Tankse after passing Lukong at the head of the Pangong Lake, the road crosses a lofty mass of mountains, by the Lankar or Marsemik La (18,400 feet), a very high but in summer by no means a difficult pass. It is free from glaciers, and generally clear of snow during the summer and early autumn. Descending into the Changchenmo valley and crossing the stream, a tributary of the Shyok, the road ascends a minor stream to a point eight miles beyond Gogra, from which there is a choice of three different roads all leading on to the Ling-zi-thung$ Plains. The most westerly path ascends the Changlung Pangtung Pass (18,900 feet), crosses the corner of the plateau and descends into a deep ravine running along the stony and very difficult bed of a stream§ (which ultimately finds its way into the Shyok River), ascends again, and skirts the

* In former years the Kilian would appear to have been the most frequented route, but it is now little used. t Several mules were lost here, although their loads had all been transferred to yaks.

+ or Ak-sai Chin.

§ The march down this ravine was one of the most trying encountered during the outward journey.

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