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In Tibet and Chinese Turkestan : 1 Volume
CONTENTS
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CONTENTS
CHAPTER I
1
Desire to explore
Tibet a good field
Difficulties to be encountered
Object of expedition
Preparations in Srinagar
Goodbye to Trench
Crossing the Zoji La
Matayan
Journey to Leh
Arranging the caravan
Departure from Leh
Visit to Himis Monastery
Crossing the Chang La
Hired transport
Fobrang
Final preparations
The Marsemik La Chang Chenmo
Crossing the frontier
Entering unknown land
Without guides
Commencement of triangulation
Horpa or Gurmen Cho
Magnificent snow mountains
Untrained assistants
Our first yak
Yeshil Kul
No water
“Fever Camp”
CHAPTER II
23
Serious and light literature
Death of animals
Excursion of Leno
Bad water
Recovery
Weakness
Continuing the journey
Observation under difficulties
Thousands of antelopes
Reconnoitring
Sickness
Barren and waterless country
Economising candles
Another route decided upon
Lazy caravan men
Tame antelope
Death of Pike's pony
“Daily” stream
Fertile valley
Difficulty of finding a ford
Aru Cho
Death of my riding pony
Illness of Sanman
Animals straying
Caravan men suspected
Robbed by Chukpas
CHAPTER III
38
Council of War
Plan of operations
Skill and pluck of Pike
Changfûnchuk
Chukpas completely surprised
Anxiety about Pike
Searching for missing animals
Burning surplus baggage
Our situation
Serious outlook
“Caching” stores
Making clothes out of tents
Illness of Pike
Anxiety about water
Waterless camp
Meeting with Nomads
They refuse to help us
Shown the wrong direction
Lost in the desert
CHAPTER IV
51
Lost in the desert
Found by Pike
Sudden ending of a river
Reconnoitring
Entering inhabited country
Gerge
Negotiations with Tibetans
Inquisitive
Medicine useless
Enemy strongly reinforced
No assistance obtainable
We decide to start at all costs
Expected fight
Peaceful departure
False news
Gerche
Arranging for transport
Natives willing to assist us
Fear of severe punishments
Compelled to return to Ladak
Departure from Gerche
Alternative routes
Difficulty of surveying
Scarcity of grass and water
Dreadful sore backs
Treatment of wounds
Record Ovis Ammon head
CHAPTER V
66
Good water
Difficult ascent
Hard work
Departure of our escort
Mountain sickness
Game very wild
Misled by guide
Annoying ponies
Trying ascent to a hill station
News of Chukpas
Guides propose an attack
Division of spoil
Keze Chaka
Halwa
Enforced short marches
Bad state of transport
Feelings of Tibetans towards Europeans
Pombos
Taxes
Curious behaviour of sick mule
Dusty camp
Frozen ink
Waterless camp
Strange river
In search of Rundor
Flashing signals
Reliable news of Rundor
CHAPTER VI
82
Ramzan sent to Ladak
His excuse for delaying
Pike's love of cold water
Annoying caravan men
Rundor
“Presents” from Pombo
Fresh transport
Names of places
Large glacier
The Nabo La
Mountain sickness
Sanman again disobedient
The last halt
Cold weather
Accident to theodolite
End of surveying
Strange visitor
Rassoula's “konka”
Grass and fuel very scarce
Death of animals
Our scribe Rassoula
Sending for transport and supplies
Shooting ponies
Arrival of men from Lutkum
Wood at last
The waterless camps
Arrival at Lutkum
Return to Leh
The Zoji La in winter
Frozen to death
End of journey
CHAPTER VII
101
Preparations at Srinagar
Start from Bandipoora
Trouble with Khalik
Trial of Khalik
Stay at Gilgit
Hunza
Mutinous pony men
Journey to the Pamirs
Frost-bitten
Difficulty of surveying in winter
Trouble with natives
Visit to Cobbold
CHAPTER VIII
116
Earthquakes
Raskam
Fording Yarkand River
Bazar Dara
Approach to Kukalung Pass
Zad
Recrossing Kukalung Pass
Camp at 16,000 feet
Incorrect maps
Description of country
Illness of Dalbir Rai
Approach to Sandal Dawan
Bivouacking on mountain-side
Dysentery
Easy marches
Arrival at Yarkand
CHAPTER IX
132
Reception at Yarkand
Dining with the Amban
After effects
Swedish missionaries
Another attempt at exploration in winter
Route followed
Foiled by snowstorm
Recrossing the Yarkand River
Punishment of dishonest natives
Incapacitated by illness
Kosarab
Return to Yarkand
Meeting Macartney and Father Hendriks
Stay in Yarkand
Apology of Teetai
Observing in Yangi Shahr
Ignorance of Chinese officials
Islam Akun
Preparations for excursion to the Takla Makan
Discovery about “ancient” Khotan MSS
Suspicions about Islam Akun
CHAPTER X
151
Departure from Yarkand
Guma
The Takla Makan
Kara Targaz
Waste of water
Ignorance of guides
Lucky return
Punishment of guides
Return to Guma
Journey to Khotan
Khotan
Islam Akun rewarded
Run on the medicine chest
Diseases
Chloroform
Important operation
Departure for Polu
Chaka
Hazy weather
Escaping attention
Entertained by a Mullah
Polu
Stay at Polu
Negotiations with Chinese
Anxiety about Ladakis
Kiria
Delay there
Night march
Sorgak gold mines
Raju very lazy
Kara Sai
CHAPTER XI
171
Departure for Tibet
Chinese post
Tolan Khoja valley
Second journey to Tibet
Atish Pass
Shor Kul
Digging for water
The Kiria River
Yepal Ungur
Bad weather
Reconnoitring
Raju leaves for Polu
Journey to Aksu
Beginning triangulation
Return to Yepal Ungur
Departure of Kara Sai men
Fine snow range
Going east again
Reconnoitrers useless
Bad health
No feasible route
Yepal Ungur once more
Fording Kiria River
Ruin at Baba Hatun
Sources of Kiria River
Numerous glaciers
Journey to Yeshil Kul
Return to “Fever Camp”
Connecting with 1896 work
CHAPTER XII
191
Magnificent scenery
Wellby's peaks
Strong winds
Returning
Work near Babu Hatun
Return to Aksu
Arrival of Raju with supplies
Checking previous work
Dalbir Rai sick
Ulugh Kul
Sources of Khotan River
Fine yak
Camp 116
Accident to ponies
Finishing surveying
The Polu gorge
Punishing theft
Vile track
Welcome presents
Return to Polu
Dinner to headmen
Dalbir Rai threatens to murder me
Abdul Karim saves bloodshed
Bad weather
Return to Yarkand
Dilatory post
CHAPTER XIII
204
Preparations at Yarkand
Fourth attempt to explore valley of Yarkand River
Route followed
Dentistry
The Khandar Dawan
Lying Tajiks
Wacha or Uchi
Reception by Ming Bashi and headmen
Return to Gombaz
Visit from Sher Mohammed
Airy tents
Measuring bases
Fine views of Muz Tagh Ata
Its height
Hard work
Arrival of Ram Singh
Error in longitude of Gombaz
No information obtainable
Start for Mariong
Mariong
No Pamir
False information
Nosh Tung
The Yarkand River
Lying natives
Steep gravel slope
Camp in jungle
Bad track
No route
CHAPTER XIV
226
Description of valley
Height of mountains
Return to Nosh Tung
Hiring yaks
The Sargon Pass
Dangerous descent
Pinchanyart
Grombchefsky's route
Frozen rivers
Jungle
Shamatagle Difficulty of observing
The Tugadir Pass
Awful track
Meeting with Pil men
Dangerous corner
Pil
No petroleum
Suspicions about me
Unable to descend the valley
Arrival of supplies
Borrowing more money
Departure from Pil
Chadder Tash
Accident to donkey
“Drop” on track
Anxiety about animals
Slow march
Pilipert
CHAPTER XV
242
Yul Bash
Guides entrapped
Ascent up glacier
The Mamakul Pass
Trying observations
Exposure
The descent
Zambok frozen to death
Long march
Travelling in the dark
Miskan
Difficult march
Raskam
Lazy yak-men
Object accomplished
Lengthy détour
Precipitous ascent to Topa Dawan
Good news
Yul Bash the liar
Accident to yak
Return route
Tents useless
Ram Singh does good work
Natives refuse information
Paying off the yak-men
Issok Bulok Agzi
CHAPTER XVI
260
My friends the Kirghiz
Rejoining the caravan
Return of Islam
Second Christmas at Zad
Down the Kulan Urgi valley
Tir revisited
Ice still too weak
Excursions from Tir
Cold bivouacs
Frozen rivers
The Kuramut Dawan
Apathy of natives
Guide frost-bitten
Ghosts
Down the Yarkand River
News from Kashgar
Alarm about plague
Annoying natives
Langar
Tashkurghan River
Narrow escape of caravan
Rotten ice
Bridging
Donkeys escape cold bath
Description of valley
Short of money
Bad part of track
Cutting ice-steps for animals
The Kesin Pass
Surveying under difficulties
Evicting animals from house
Unpleasant surroundings
No water
An unexpected meeting
Crossing the Teriart River
Waterproofing my garments
Curious cavities in rocks
Sending news to Kashgar
Task completed
Back to Chumdi
Up the Asgan Sal valley
Robbery by Chinese official
Completion of journey
Return to Yarkand
CHAPTER XVII
283
Trouble about money
The Khan Arik route
Large oasis
Khan Arik
Meeting Macartney
Hospitable hosts
Civilisation
Muz Tagh Ata and Mount Kungur
The Taotai
Formal complaints
His promise
Dinner with the Taotai
Feeling a fool
M. Petrovsky
Swedish missionaries
Macartney's position
Departure from Kashgar
CHAPTER XVIII
297
Marpa
Preparations in Yarkand
Attack on missionaries
Plucky behaviour of Macartney
Delays in starting
Eastwards once more
Stopped at Khotan
Complaint to Macartney
Stormy interviews with Amban
Passport useless
Circumventing the Amban
Reply to complaint
Dust storm in desert
Arrival at Polu
Loss of sheep
Opposition by Chinese
Negotiations broken off
“Protection” refused
Raju dismissed
No assistance obtainable
Compelled to start
CHAPTER XIX
312
Heavy rain
Fresh animals
Hard work
Death of Kasim
Snow storms
Driving sheep
Loss of baggage
Bleak bivouac
Saroz Kul
Ponies strayed
False alarm
Amban's “kind” orders
Sickness
Meeting Islam with camels
Camp 110
Ram Singh still unable to work
Imperative to abandon journey
“Caching”
Return to Ladak
Meeting Europeans again
Green fields
Leh
Disposal of caravan
Pleasant march
Srinagar
Simla
Hospital
Kind visitors
Homewards
CHAPTER XX
328
Administration
Cost to China
Unpaid officials
Squeezing
Taxes
Forced loan
“Justice”
Prisons
Paupers
Irrigation
Slavery
Agriculture
Industries
Minerals
Trade
Money-lenders
Transport animals
Post
Telegraph
CHAPTER XXI
349
Strength of “Army”
Military administration
Artillery
Accident to “Artillery” officer
Russian designs
The Kanjut claims
Russian counter-claims
Opinion of Chinese rule
Necessity for care
Possible danger from Afghanistan
Sport
Ovis Poli
Burrhel
Chicore
Antelope
Kyang
Yak
APPENDICES
365
GLOSSARY
407
INDEX
409
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