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Sand-Buried Ruins of Khotan : 1 Volume
CONTENTS
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CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
vii
First plan of explorations
Sanction and assistance of Indian Government
Estimates of time and expense
Help of Survey of India Department
Previous obstacles to archæological labours
Uncertainties of enterprise
Value of scientific results
Resolution of International Oriental Congress
Buddhism in Central Asia
Antiquarian acquisitions from Chinese Turkestan
Indian influences at Khotan
Ancient art of Khotan
Cultural connection with China
Relics of classical art
Interchange of ancient civilisations
Discoveries of Sanskrit, Chinese, Tibetan manuscripts
Kharoshthi documents on wood
Ruins threatened by “treasure-seekers”
Help from Chinese officials
Purpose of Personal Narrative
Consideration shown by Indian Government
Acknowledgment of scholarly assistance
Prospects of future archæological work
CHAPTER I CALCUTTA TO KASHMIR
1
On Mohand Marg
Previous antiquarian tours
Start from Calcutta
Up the Jhelam Valley
Arrival in Kashmir
Preparations at Srinagar
The Kashmir Chronicle
Camp on Sind River
The Bagh of Buchvor
Joined by Sub-Surveyor
Formation of camp
Start from Srinagar
CHAPTER II TO ASTOR AND GILGIT
11
Start on Gilgit route
A “Master of the Gates”
Over the Tragbal Pass
Descent over snow-bridges
Valley of the “Black Ganga”
Among the Dards
Halt at Gurez
In the Burzil Valley
Minimarg
Crossing of Burzil Pass
Belated Commissariat
Views of Nanga-Parbat Peaks
The Astor capital
First sight of Indus
Halt at Duyan
The British Baby
Down to the Indus
A night ride from Bunji
At the Gilgit Agency
Last Indian “Station”
CHAPTER III THROUGH HUNZA
29
Start from Gilgit
In the old Dogra Service
Glories of Mount Rakiposhi
The storming of Nilth
A historic gorge
Old adversaries
Stupa of Thol
Language of Hunza
Halt at Aliabad
Old raiding days
Relations with China
The Hunza Levies
Visit to Mir's Castle
First march in Hunza Gorge
Ghammesar landslip
Climbs over ‘Rafiks’
Ghulmit
Wakhi settlements
Glaciers near Pasu
Crossing of Batur Glacier
‘Darband’ of Khaibar
More alpine climbs
Marching of Kanjutis
A polyglot camp
Climbs to Misgar
Hunza hillmen discharged
A Celestial soldier
Yaks from the Pamir
Among Sarikoli herdsmen
CHAPTER IV ON THE TAGHDUMBASH PAMIR
57
Crossing of Kilik Pass
Camp at Kök-török
Survey work commenced
Watershed towards Oxus
Crossing of Wakhjir Pass
Oxus Source Glaciers
On Afghan soil
A vista into Wakhan
First news of Chinese troubles
March down the Taghdumbash Pamir
Chance meeting with German officer
Kirghiz and Wakhi settlers
Over pleasant grazing-grounds
Ride to Tashkurghan
A difficult fording
CHAPTER V IN SARIKOL
71
Tash-kurghan, Ptolemy's “Stone Tower”
On the track of Hiuen-Tsiang
Ruins of old town
Diplomatic surveying
Chinese garrison
Meeting with Sarikoli headmen
Applicants for “Tabloids”
Requisitions for kitchen
Plain of Tagharma
Muztagh-Ata sighted
March along Russian Pamir
A Kirghiz shrine
At Karasu post
Crossing of Ulugh-Rabat Pass
Old friends, the marmots
Chinese at Subashi post
Arrival at Little Kara-kul
CHAPTER VI ON MUZTAGH-ATA
84
Lakes of L. Kara-kul and Basik-kul
Day of alpine rain
Apprehensions of Kirghiz Beg
Kirghiz hospitality
A hitch about transport
Photo-theodolite survey
Start for Murtagh-Ata
Reconnoitring the great peaks
Heavy mantle of snow and ice
Along Yambulak Glacier
Trouble with Yaks
Preliminary climb
Reconnaissance of Hunza Levies
Waiting for fair weather
Start for higher slopes
Climb in deep snow
Mountain-sickness of followers
Highest point reached
View over “Roof of the World”
Plucky Hunza guides
Freebooting Visions
Descent to Yambulak Glacier Camp
Triangulation from Shamalda spur
Return to Kara-kul
CHAPTER VII THROUGH THE GEZ DEFILE TO KASHGAR
106
Departure from Kara-kul
Tarns of Basik-kul
Obstruction at Bulunkul
A pliable interpreter
Entrance of Gez Defile
Chinese engineering
Crossing Koksel Glacier
At Gez Karaul
Absconding of Kirghiz
Opportune relief
Over the “Nine Passes”
Through tortuous gorges
Solitary spring
Distant view of plains
Scrambles over decomposed ranges
Arrival in Tashmalik plain
Passage of Yamanyar R.
Through the Opal oasis
First impressions of rural Turkestan
Ride into Kashgar
CHAPTER VIII STAY AT KASHGAR
121
Mr. Macartney's hospitable roof
Stay at Chini-Bagh
Organisation of caravan
Purchase of camels and ponies
Engagement of Turki followers
The Kashgar craftsmen
Water-tanks for the desert
Congenial studies
Visits to Chinese officials
Appeal to Hiuen-Tsiang's memory
News of fighting at Peking
Dangers of local troubles
Life at Chini-Bagh
A polyglot clientèle
Picnics of Kashgaris
The Russian Consulate
Remains of Stupas
Visit to Liu-Kin-tang's temple
Chinese historical paintings
In the Chinese cantonment
Visit to an artist-official
CHAPTER IX KHANUI AND ORDAM-PADSHAH
139
First start from Kashgar
Via Appia of Kashgar
Collation at Beshkarim
Shrine of holy Mairyam
Camp at Khanui
Site of Hasa-Tam
Ruins of Topa Tim
The Mauri Tim Stupa
“The pigeon house” ruin
Departure from Kashgar
Ride to Khanarik
Hindu moneylenders
March to Achchik
On edge of desert
First crossing of sand-dunes
Arrival at Ordam-Padshah
Shrines in the desert
‘Yolchi Beg’ on a camel
Tomb of Hazrat-Begim
Oasis of Kizil
A dreary caravan-route
CHAPTER X YARKAND AND KARGHALIK
161
Reclamation of desert ground
Entry into Yarkand
Palatial quarters
Halt at Yarkand
Cosmopolitan visitors
Strange mixture of races
Old Turkestan art-ware
Interviews with Liu-Darin
Chinese dinner-party
Currency complications
Departure from Yarkand
Crossing of Yarkand River
Halt at Karghalik
Visit of Karghalik Amban
Bazars of Karghalik
Buddhist monk from China
CHAPTER XI ON THE ROAD TO KHOTAN
180
Ancient desert route
On the track of Marco Polo
An exile in the desert
In Guma oasis
Enquiries after alleged “old books”
Karakul Mazar
Glimpse of Karakorum Range
Stupa of Topa Tim
Débris-strewn ‘Tatis’
Eroded ancient sites
An evening in weird desolation
Old remains at Moji
Oases of Zanguya and Pialma
Comfortable homesteads
CHAPTER XII ARRIVAL IN KHOTAN
194
“The Pigeons' sanctuary”
Legend of sacred rats
Survival of Buddhist local cult
Rural environs
Entry into Khotan town
Camp in residential gardens
First meeting with Pan-Darin
Despatch of “prospecting” parties
Preparing for the mountains
Interesting geographical task
Forged birch-bark manuscript
Suspected forgeries
CHAPTER XIII TO THE HEADWATERS OF THE YURUNG-KASH
206
Start for the mountains
Debouchure of Yurung-kash R.
Through the outer ranges
Crossing of Ulugh-Dawan
Trying march to Buya
In the Pisha Valley
A centenarian hillman
“Kuen-luen Peak No. 5”
A grand panorama
Precipitous descent
Arrival in Karanghu-tagh
A penal settlement
A gloomy vale
Start from Karanghu-tagh
March to Yurung-kash Gorge
Hot spring
Wild river-bed
Attempt to penetrate gorge
Forced to turn back
Climbing on Yaks
CHAPTER XIV OVER THE KARA-KASH RANGES
225
A terra incognita
A hidden mountain track
Crossing of Pom-tagh Pass
In the Nissa Valley
Mythic Nysa of Dionysus
Difficult tent-pitching
Survey above Brinjak Pass
Panorama of glaciers
A trying descent
Combination of ice and dust
Distrustful hillmen
View from Yagan Dawan
Maze of eroded ridges
Through fantastic gorges
Want of water
March in Mitaz Valley
Climb to Ulughat-Dawan
Extensive panorama
Identification of ice-peaks
Connection with Indian Surveys
Waiting for water
Night on Ulughat-Dawan
Moonlight over desert plains
A magic city
Triangulation of Khotan
Descent to Kara-kash Valley
Return to arid gorges
Climb of Kauruk-kuz
Successful triangulation
CHAPTER XV ANTIQUARIAN PREPARATIONS AT KHOTAN
244
Visit to Mount Gosringa
Legend of hidden Arhat
In a sacred cave
Easy-going Muhammadans
Return to Khotan town
Antiques brought by Turdi
Visits of Pan-Darin
The blessing of ‘Tang-Seng’
Camp in Akhun Beg's garden
Medical functions
Ram Singh's departure
Remains of Chalmakazan
Among the jade-pits
Speculative jade-mining
Fame of Khotan jade
CHAPTER XVI YOTKAN, THE SITE OF THE ANCIENT CAPITAL
256
Camels stuck in ‘Yars’
First discovery of Yotkan site
Washing for gold
Antiques as secondary products
Ancient coins and pottery
Culture-strata of Yotkan
Silt over culture-strata
Alluvial deposits on irrigated ground
Rising of ground level
Site of ancient capital
Position of Sa-mo-joh Convent
Lingering local worship
Identification of Buddhist shrines
The marsh of Halalbagh
A learned Mullah
Abu Bakr's excavations
Preparations for winter
CHAPTER XVII TO THE RUINS OF DANDAN-UILIQ
270
Start for desert campaign
At Tawakkel oasis
Recruiting of diggers
Hunters as guides
Preparations at Tawakkel
Failure of local dentistry
Start into desert
Camping in wintry desert
Arctic clothing
Turdi guides through sand-dunes
Arrival at Dandan-Uiliq
First survey of ruins
Fuel from ancient orchards
CHAPTER XVIII EXCAVATION OF BUDDHIST SHRINES
281
Stucco-relievos of ruined shrine
Excavation of temple-cellas
Construction of walls
Decoration of cellas
Buddhist frescoes
Sculptures in chapel
Painted panels
Ancient brooms
Interesting relievos
Scenes represented in frescoes
Legend of Naga lady
Picture of Buddhist scholars
CHAPTER XIX FIRST FINDS OF ANCIENT MANUSCRIPTS
295
Excavation of monastic dwelling
First leaf unearthed
Sanskrit manuscript finds
Discovery of Sanskrit ‘Pothi’
Buddhist canonical text
Cook-room of monastic dwelling
Return of Ram Singh
Rendezvous in desert
Accuracy of surveys
“The Aksakal of the Taklamakan”
Turdi's old pony
A failed speculation
An antique fodder store
End of ill-fated anima
CHAPTER XX DISCOVERY OF DATED DOCUMENTS
307
Finds in ruined monastery
Picture of rat-king
Documents in unknown language
Probable contents
Finds of Chinese records
An ancient petition
Ancient name of Dandan-Uiliq
Christmas Day in desert
Lost among dunes
‘Yolchi Beg,’ fox-terrier
The Hu-kuo monastery
Its Chinese documents
Date of its abandonment
More painted panels
Ancient “horse-millinery”
Persian art influence
Buddhist pictorial art
Traces of old cultivation
Abandonment of settlement
Probable cause of abandonment
CHAPTER XXI THROUGH THE DESERT TO KERIYA
325
Departure from Dandan-Uiliq
Remains of Rawak
Dismissal of Tawakkel labourers
Start for Keriya Darya
Formidable sand-dunes
Crossing of ‘Dawans’
Arrival at frozen river
Desert shrine of Burhanuddin
Jungle of Keriya R.
Welcome at Keriya
The Amban of Keriya
Visits of state
Halt in Keriya town
CHAPTER XXII TO NIYA AND IMAM JAFAR SADIK
339
View of Kuen-luen
Yesyulghun and Ovraz
Oasis of Niya
Ramzan festival
A promising find
First Kharoshthi tablets
March along Niya River
Reclamation of jungle ground
Winter atmosphere of desert
Through riverine jungle
Shrine of Imam Jafar Sadik
Exhibition of textile ex-votos
Tomb on sacred hill
Start for ancient site
Transport of ice
Where the Niya R. loses itself
Through dead forest
Ancient houses sighted
Arrival at ruins
CHAPTER XXIII FIRST EXCAVATION OF KHAROSHTHI TABLETS
354
Search of first find-place
Ibrahim's chance discovery
An abundant haul
Varieties of inscribed wooden tablets
Type of Kharoshthi writing
First decipherment
Language of records
Clearing of rooms
More documents discovered
Wedge-shaped and oblong tablets
Dated records
Erosive power of wind
Structures attacked by erosion
CHAPTER XXIV EXCAVATION OF ANCIENT RESIDENCES
369
Decayed records on wood
Ancient ice-pit
Large dwelling-houses
An old reception-hall
Excavations in deep sand
Remains of coloured rug
Broken arms from storage room
Ancient carved chair
Antique furniture
Plan of an ancient garden
Dead poplars and fruit trees
Troublesome followers
Niaz Akhun's truculent propensities
Quarrel with camel-man
Affray in desert camp
“The evil spirits of the Desert”
CHAPTER XXV DISCOVERIES IN AN ANTIQUE RUBBISH HEAP
385
Discovery of ancient rubbish layers
Survey of Stupa ruin
Ancient “waste-paper” deposits
Clearing of consolidated refuse
Antique microbes
Kharoshthi documents on leather
Technicalities of wooden stationery
Fastening of ancient envelopes
Classical seals in clay
Pallas Athene and Eros
Symbols of classical influence
CHAPTER XXVI DECIPHERMENT OF ANCIENT DOCUMENTS ON WOOD AND LEATHER
398
Prakrit language of Kharoshthi records
Ancient official correspondence
Titles of officials
Sanskrit introductions
Old names of Khotan
Tradition of Indian immigration
Khotan colonized from Taxila
Unique tablet in Brahmi
Chronological evidence
Chinese dated record
Commercial relations with China
Relics of ancient industry
Architectural wood-carving
CHAPTER XXVII THE RUINS OF ENDERE
409
Return to Imam Jafar Sadik
To the Yartungaz River
A forlorn colony
Vagaries of Yartungaz River
Through the desert to Endere River
Arrival at Endere Stupa
A successful concentration
Ancient circumvallation
Excavation of temple
Manuscript finds
Leaves in unknown language
Tibetan manuscripts
Oldest known Tibetan writing
Records of Tibetan invasion
Date in Chinese graffito
Ancient ex-votos of rags
Remains of ancient ramparts
Survey of Stupa
CHAPTER XXVIII EXPEDITION TO KARADONG RUINS
423
Return towards Niya
On the desert track to Cherchen
“Home mails”
Forced marches to Keriya
Help of Amban
Start for Karadong
Along the Keriya River
The shepherds of the riverine jungle
Guides from Tonguz-baste
The first sand-storm
Arrival at Karadong
A legend of Hiuen-tsiang
Ancient fortified post
Excavation of ruins
Finds of ancient cereals
Return of ‘Buran’
Sad news
CHAPTER XXIX THE SEARCH FOR HIUEN-TSIANG'S PI-MO
434
March back along Keriya River
Through the Shivul swamps
In new cultivation
Difficulty about guides
Deserted village sites
Shifts of irrigated area
Legend of Ho-lo-lo-kia
An Odyssey amidst the dunes
Remains at Uzun-tati
Lachin-Ata Mazar
The oasis of Gulakhma
Farewell visit to Keriya
Oases of Chira and Sampula
‘Tati’ of Hanguya
Return to Khotan environs
CHAPTER XXX AK-SIPIL AND THE SCULPTURES OF THE RAWAK STUPA
446
Halt at Yurung-kash
“Culture-strata” of Tam-Öghil
March to Ak-sipil
Remains of ancient fort
Sculpture from Kighillik
A huge refuse-heap
Discovery of Rawak Stupa
Succession of sand-storms
Trying heat and glare
Plan of Stupa
Excavation in Stupa court
Clearing of colossal statues
Threatened collapse of images
Risks of excavation
Wealth of statuary
Interesting relievos
“Guardians of the Gates”
A quaint ex-voto
Affinity to Græco-Buddhist art
Numismatic finds
Date of Stupa
Removal of relievos
Burying of sculptures
CHAPTER XXXI ISLAM AKHUN AND HIS FORGERIES
469
Return to Khotan
Quarters at Nar-Bagh
Interviews with Pan-Darin
Purchases of “old books”
Suspicions about Islam Akhun
Arrest of Islam Akhun
His previous impostures
Queer papers seized on him
An improvised “Cutchery”
Cross-examination of forger
Convicted by his own statements
Islam Akhun's admissions
Associates in the factory
Manufacture of “old books”
Methods of production
The forger's confessions
Wit and humour of Islam Akhun
CHAPTER XXXII LAST DAYS IN KHOTAN OASIS
482
Farewell to Pan-Darin
Departure from Khotan town
“Tips” in Turkestan
Last visit to Yotkan
Petty trade of oasis
Foreign colonies
Visit to Kara-kash town
Site of Kara-döbe
Leave-taking of Turdi
Niaz Akhun's matrimonial entanglement
Farewell to Khotan friends
An offering at the “Pigeons' Shrine”
CHAPTER XXXIII FROM KHOTAN TO LONDON
490
Rapid marches to Yarkand
Return to Kashgar
Demobilisation of caravan
Assistance from Russian Consul-General
Among old friends
Packing of antiquities
Farewell to faithful companions
Start for Osh
Over the Alai Passes
Down the Gulcha Valley
Welcome at Osh
In Russian Turkestan
The Andijan Bazars
Moghul monuments
From Samarkand to the Caspian
Arrival in London
Temporary work on collection
Conclusion
INDEX
503
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