between the Chitralis and the Galcha tribes north of the Hindukush, those typical representatives of the ` Homo Alpinus ' in Asia, this resemblance is not difficult to account for. Something in the long ample garments, usually of brown wool, the round caps with upturned brims, and the rich locks hanging down to the neck, seemed to project these figures into Southern Europe of the late middle ages.
Callous and born conspirators Chitralis have often been called, and the tangled web of intrigue, murder, and treachery which constitutes what is known of the modern political history of the little mountain state seems fully to support this description. But with all the vices which these kaleidoscopic usurpations and betrayals reveal in the leading classes, good manners and cultured ways of enjoyment do not appear to have suffered. Pliability and polished discretion were, no doubt, needful for all when the chances of sudden misfortune were so constant and near. Every palace revolution threatened property and life of the petty aristocracy, the Adam-zadas, while the Chitral chiefs' practice of selling their subjects as slaves into neighbouring hill states from personal spite or for financial profit must have carried insecurity into the humblest household. Perhaps the lightening of the struggle for life which such checks on the population brought about has helped the Chitrali to retain much of good-natured humour and fondness for all pleasures of existence.
The last eight miles into Chitral showed little but barren slopes of rock and detritus. But from the height of the Atani spur Tirich-mir came into view once more, a glorious mass lit up in red and gold tints by the setting sun. It was getting dark when, rounding the great boulder-strewn spur opposite Chumarkhon, we emerged upon the broad valley containing the Chitral ` capital.' As I cantered ahead between the fields I was met by Captain E. Knollys, the Assistant Political Agent, who had come to offer kind welcome. Once only had we seen each other far away on the Bannu border ; but the mile or so we rode slowly along engaged in cordial talk sufficed to
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