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0108 Ruins of Desert Cathay : vol.1
中国砂漠地帯の遺跡 : vol.1
Ruins of Desert Cathay : vol.1 / 108 ページ(カラー画像)

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doi: 10.20676/00000213
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CH. IV

38   IN CHITRAL

I:

in its unmistakable imitation of Indian ` Public Works '

style, and significant for its purpose—the Mehtar's new

school. How grateful I felt that I could with a good

conscience forgo the inspection !

During most of my stay in Chitral the weather was

cloudy and threatening. Yet after the day's ` rush ' and

toil I always managed a short excursion to one or other

place in the close vicinity where remains of antiquity were

reported. More instructive than these remains themselves

were the rides that took me there. For some miles above

and below castle and Agency the valley is a closely

cultivated oasis, one hamlet with its orchards and avenues

almost touching the other (Fig. 14). In Dawawish, under

luxuriant walnut-trees, I was shown a roughly built house

supposed to date back to the times of the ` Kafirs.' Out-

side it looked like a large heap of stones ; within I found

a large central room elaborately panelled in deodar black

with the smoke of ages. Here, too, the decorative motives

clearly recalled Gandhara work, though far more primitive

in execution. The owner of this gloomy old house was a

Mullah, practising also as a carpenter. Proudly he claimed

the original Kafir builder of it as a fellow-craftsman. The

scanty remains of old fort walls at Jughor and Uchust had

little to teach me ; for their materials were only unhewn

stones, scarcely distinguishable in their laying, etc., from

the rough walls common at present in this region. But

the views across the green valley, with the barren

mountain slopes behind rising abruptly to thousands of

feet, were in each case lovely.

On the last day of my stay I had the good fortune

to measure and photograph a number of Kafirs of the

Bashgali tribe who had found a refuge in the Mehtar's

territory when forcible conversion threatened them after the

annexation of their old homes by the Afghans. Some two

hundred families are said to be settled now in Bambureth

and other nullahs above Ayun (Fig. i I), and the Mehtar

had obligingly ordered a representative set to come in

for measurement (Fig. 15). Quiet and harmless the men

looked, in spite of their old reputation for savage cruelty

in the days of independence. Only the shaven fore-part of