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0089 Ruins of Desert Cathay : vol.2
Ruins of Desert Cathay : vol.2 / Page 89 (Grayscale High Resolution Image)

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doi: 10.20676/00000213
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CH. LIV

A LUCKY ENCOUNTER

47

on Chinese soil except in modern or mediaeval buildings. The bricks of the tower, too, differed in size from those observed in the watch-towers which I had examined along the ancient wall, being smaller and only two inches thick. I searched in vain for any traces of that wall with its characteristic reed-bundles, but found that a much decayed earthen rampart, about a hundred feet square, adjoined the tower on the south, evidently marking an enclosure. Had this served once as a place of refuge for some outlying colony, and when had it been abandoned ?

Not being able to sight any more towers, I felt rather puzzled how best to continue our search for the wall. However, I decided to march on farther east until we struck the track leading north across the Su-lo Ho towards Hami. Roborowsky and Kozloff, who had twice followed this route in 1893-94, had marked ruins of some sort on their map in a position south of the river, and I felt in any case bound to visit these whatever their age. So we moved on to the east across a level plain covered with thick scrub, and in one or two places with Toghraks of fair size.

Isolated clay terraces rose here and there, and after some four miles we fixed the plane-table on one of these. No tower came in view as we eagerly scanned the horizon ; but luckily the Surveyor's sharp eyes sighted animals grazing in the distance. So we made for them quickly, and after a couple of miles to the east came upon a large flock of sheep, cows, camels, and ponies. We were met by a number of rather ferocious dogs (from which ' Dash,' my ever active little companion, had to seek shelter on Tila Bai's saddle), and by two truculent-looking herdsmen, mounted on wiry Mongolian ponies and carrying long flintlocks.

They proved to be Tungan nomads well acquainted with the riverine grazing-grounds on the Su-lo Ho and the high valleys and plateaus south of Tun-huang. Their rough looks and rather aggressive bearing would scarcely have inspired confidence in ordinary wayfarers. I could instinctively realize the loathing with which peace-loving Chinese, attached to their four walls, must regard such