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0352 Ruins of Desert Cathay : vol.2
Ruins of Desert Cathay : vol.2 / Page 352 (Grayscale High Resolution Image)

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doi: 10.20676/00000213
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234 ART AT `THOUSAND BUDDHAS' CH. LXX

delightfully green and refreshing, and I greeted it like an anchorite set free from another Thebais. There I was

kept busy all day with the last settling of accounts and farewell visits to my Amban friends. A pleasant hour was

passed at Wang's cool and shady Ya-mên, where I had my

last chat about local antiquities with that refined scholar friend. His grey-haired old mother, a dignified matron,

had just joined him from Shan-hsi, and with her son and daughter-in-law sat for a peaceful family group (Fig. 209). How could I have foreseen the scenes of bloodshed and pillage which were soon to be witnessed here ! Then a small but recherché meal united us at Lin Ta-jên's table.

The heat of the day had worn off when I finally rode away from the garden which had served as my Tun-huang

camp. At the large temple outside the east gate of the

town I found my Mandarin friends assembled with a large array of their officials, all in gala dress, to bid me a hearty

farewell. It was a true scene from the ancient East, and

the polychrome woodwork of the high temple portico made a striking frame for my last impression of Tun-huang. It

was dark before I reached the edge of the oasis, and midnight by the time I rejoined my camp at a solitary road-side station in the desert. So there was plenty of time for thought of all that Tun-huang had yielded up to me. But the strain of these labours had been great, and my relief was equally great at being now free to exchange archaeological work in the torrid desert plains for geographical exploration in the mountains.