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0043 Ruins of Desert Cathay : vol.2
中国砂漠地帯の遺跡 : vol.2
Ruins of Desert Cathay : vol.2 / 43 ページ(カラー画像)

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doi: 10.20676/00000213
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CH. I..I

NOVEL DIFFICULTIES   13

for the market, here held daily, had long been closed. My

men, the Indians included, naturally grew impatient and

annoyed at the endless delays caused by what they took

for cussed contrariness in the ` heathen Khitai.' I myself

felt plainly brought face to face with a great shift of the

social background. Here in the very centre of Asia I

seemed somehow forced into touch again with features

of civilization familiar enough in the far-off West. It

amused me to think what our experiences would have

been, had our caravan suddenly pitched camp in Hyde

Park, and expected to raise supplies promptly in the

neighbourhood without producing coin of the realm !

Next morning the icy eastern gale was still blowing

unabated. All the men not engaged over the scanty

kitchen fires sought warmth and oblivion from discomforts

past and present by a long day-sleep cuddled up in their

furs. But it was a busy day for me. Early in the morn-

ing I had a long interview with a big deputation from the

Turkestan traders settled in the town, who had come to

pay their respects to me as a quasi-compatriot of official

standing. The trade interests they represented were

small, and it did not take long to realize that most of them

had retired to Tun-huang from Hami, Charklik, Turfan, in

order to find a safe refuge from inconvenient creditors or

lawsuits. But the plentiful supply of camels which Tun-

huang offered for hire had enabled them to extend their

ventures far to the east and south. As long residence

had made them familiar with local conditions in Kan-su, I

was eager to gather from them as much as possible of the

practical information needed for my immediate plans. It

was interesting to learn that manufactured imports from

Urumchi, Lan-chou, and Khotan seemed to compete here

on approximately equal terms. The Mongol grazing-

grounds in the high valleys and plateaus towards Tibet

offered good customers for them in exchange for wool

and skins.

Long before I started on this journey I had been struck

by the geographically important position which the oasis of

Tun-huang occupies near the point where the greatest old

high road of Asia from east to west is crossed by the direct