488 FROM THE KUN-LUN TO LONDON CH.XCVI1
before I was considered strong enough to face the fatigues of the fortnight's continuous travel down to Srinagar. It was some satisfaction that I could at least use this time for urgent writing tasks, including the arrangements for the safe onward progress of my archaeological collections. These were being carried down to Kashmir under Lal Singh's care, and were thence to do the long journey to London by cart, rail, and mail steamer under special safeguards.
At last, by November Ist, I was able to say good-bye to Mr. Schmitt and the other members of that excellent
Mission Station where so much good work is done to alleviate suffering and spread light among a race struggling
with climatic and other hardships, and where I had received so much help and kindness. I had to be carried in my litter, being still unable to sit up or ride ; and the long marches, mostly in desolate valleys swept by wintry winds, were very tiring to me. So it was a great comfort when on November loth I had safely crossed the Zoji-la. This pass, though only i i,000 feet or so above the sea, is yet very awkward to cross when once snow has descended on its avalanche-swept defiles. Beyond I rejoiced again in sunny views of beloved Kashmir, though, alas ! I had to rest content with being carried past the foot of my ` own ' high Alpine Marg, the favourite scene for my labours during long happy summers.
At last, by November i3th, I reached Srinagar, where another long halt was imposed by the medical advice of my old mountaineering friend, Dr. Arthur Neve. He was able to confirm the assurance that my powers of walking and climbing would prove practically unimpaired, in spite of the loss of my toes, as soon as the wounds left by the partial amputation of them had healed. The lopg stay which I had to make at Srinagar under his orders in order to facilitate the process of healing was made pleasant and refreshing by the kind hospitality and attention I enjoyed on the part of my friends Captain Oliver and Captain Macpherson, the other Assistant Resident. In the genial surroundings provided by their comfortable house and the glories of a Kashmir autumn the multifarious labours
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