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Innermost Asia : vol.1 |
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bank of the main stream, a small cemetery belonging to Darêl people, who every summer come
up to this region to graze their cattle and cultivate the land. On the wooden enclosures of the
graves there was much good carving, with decorative motifs clearly derived from Graeco-
Buddhist art, recalling those I had seen among the ruins of the far-away Niya Site and elsewhere.
Nothing like it had previously met my eyes at the rudely marked resting-places of the dead or in
the dwellings of the living, in the course of this or of my former journey from Kashmīr. As I
camped that night at the little village of Gabar, the highest regular summer settlement of Darêl,
about 7,300 feet above the sea, I had the distinct impression of having reached ground where
traces of an earlier and more developed civilization might yet be looked for.
Section IV.—DARÊL OLD AND NEW
Before I proceed to record the observations I was able to make during my passage down
the main valley of Darêl, it will be convenient to review those early notices of the territory which
invest it with a special antiquarian interest. We owe them entirely to the record of the travels
of those two famous Chinese pilgrims Fa-hsien and Hsüan-tsang. I have already had occasion
to examine these notices, on account of their topographical bearing, when discussing the informa-
tion furnished by Chinese sources about ancient 'Udyāna' or Swāt,¹ and I may therefore here
treat them briefly.
Fa-hsien's narrative describing his passage about A. D. 403 from the side of Chieh-ch'a
竭叉 or Kāshgar ² to Wu-ch'ang 烏長 or Swāt tells us : ³ 'From this [the travellers] went
westwards towards North India, and after being on the way for a month, they succeeded in getting
across and through the range of the Onion mountains. The snow rests on them both winter and
summer.' After a reference to the dangers there besetting travellers from 'venomous dragons',
in the manner familiar from other Chinese accounts of the Ts'ung-ling or the Pāmīrs, Fa-hsien
continues : 'The people of the country call the range by the name of the "Snow Mountains".
When the travellers had got through them, they were in North India, and immediately on entering
its borders, found themselves in a small kingdom called T'o-leih (T'o-li), where also there were
many monks, all students of the Hīna-yāna.
'In this kingdom there was formerly an Arhan, who by his supernatural power took a clever
artificer up to the Tushita heaven to see the height, complexion, and appearance of Maitreya
Bodhisattva, and then return and make an image of him in wood. First and last, this was done
three times, and then the image was completed, eighty cubits in height, and eight cubits at the
base from knee to knee of the crossed legs. On fast-days it emits an effulgent light. The kings
of the [surrounding] countries vie with one another in presenting offerings to it. Here it is,—to
be seen now as of old.'
The narrative next proceeds to tell how 'the travellers went on to the south-west for fifteen
days' through the gorges of the Indus until they arrived in Wu-ch'ang or Swāt. The graphic
description given of this trying route, with its dangerous 'paths chiselled along the rocks', its
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