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| 0126 |
Innermost Asia : vol.1 |
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Gates are traceable near the middle of the longer sides facing north and south. The eastern side
is adjoined by what appears to have been an outer enclosure, with a tower about 18 feet square
at the north-east corner. The walls of the whole, varying from two to three feet in thickness, appear
to have been built partly in large-sized bricks and partly in unhewn stone. Within the inner
enclosure, which seems to have been utilized as a shelter by graziers within comparatively recent
times, is a jumbled mass of ruined walls enclosing courts and rooms, of which the surveyor was
unable to disentangle the exact disposition and character. Neither from his plan nor from my
rapid inspection of the ruin am I able to form any definite opinion as to its origin and date. But
considering that this ground below Toghlān-shahr has certainly been abandoned for a very long
period, I am inclined to believe that the enclosure is old, but that it was probably repaired and
adapted for temporary occupation in Muhammadan times. I may add in conclusion that some
300 yards farther down the plateau edge there is the ruin of another but much smaller walled
enclosure, measuring outside some 53 by 26 feet, which from the bricks used appears to be of
similar origin.
Antiquity
of Tāsh-
kurghān. My single day's halt at Tāsh-kurghān on September 12th was more than fully taken up with
manifold arrangements for transport, &c., in view of the intended division of my party a few marches
farther ahead. What I was able to see once more of the old capital of Sarīkol or to learn about its
present conditions did not modify the views concerning the antiquity of the site and the character
of its extant remains ¹⁶ that I have recorded in connexion with my previous visits. I may, however,
briefly mention that not more than a few hundred yards below the north-east foot of the ruined
town site examined in 1900, the identity of which with the Sarīkol capital seen and described by
Hsüan-tsang is not subject to doubt, I now noticed the presence of a Muhammadan shrine marked
by a large ruined 'Gumbaz' and an ancient cemetery adjoining. The former is supposed to
shelter the remains of Shāh Auliya, a renowned saint, whose grave attracts pilgrims from all over
Sarīkol. Is it possible that this pilgrimage place is connected somehow by continuity of local
worship with the 'convent remarkable for the height and largeness of its towers and pavilions'
as well as for its majestic statue of Buddha, which, as Hsüan-tsang relates, an early king of Chieh-
p'an-t'o had built at the site of the former royal residence in honour of the venerated teacher
Kumāra-buddha ? ¹⁷
Section V.—BY THE KARA-TĀSH RIVER TO KĀSHGAR
Start from
Tāsh-
kurghān. On September 13th I set out from Tāsh-kurghān for Kāshgar. I was anxious to use the
chance offered by the season for exploring en route the Kara-tāsh valley, which lies on the most
direct line from Sarīkol to Kāshgar but owing to special difficulties had never been surveyed.
In order to reach it, it was necessary for the first few marches to follow again the main caravan
route connecting Sarīkol with Kāshgar and Yārkand across the great southern buttresses of
Muztāgh-atā. As I proceeded by it to the high plateau of Chichiklik via the Dershat valley
I felt sure of being once more on the track of Hsüan-tsang.
Hsüan-
tsang's
route from
Sarīkol. Already on my passage of June, 1906, I had convinced myself that Hsüan-tsang's journey
had led him across the Chichiklik.¹ But the route up the narrow Shindī valley,² which the early
season had then obliged me to take, was not likely to have been that of the great pilgrim when he
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