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| 0320 |
Innermost Asia : vol.2 |
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CHAPTER XXIV
FROM KUCHĀ TO KĀSHGAR
Section I.—OLD REMAINS WITHIN THE BAI DISTRICT
Start from On May 6th I set out from Kuchā westwards in order to regain Kāshgar. Colonel (now
Kuchā. Brigadier-General Sir Percy) Sykes had taken over officiating charge of the Consulate General
since early April, while Sir George Macartney was on leave in England ; and I knew that he
intended to start on tour from Kāshgar by the first week in June. It was essential that I should
reach Kāshgar before his departure, in order to secure his help in the preparations for my intended
journey across the Russian Pāmīrs and along the uppermost Oxus. The distance still separating
me from Kāshgar—nearly 500 miles—would require at least three weeks' continuous travel ; and
this, together with a few necessary brief halts en route at the several district head-quarters, left
but little time to spare on the journey. I had to be content with such opportunities as it afforded
for a general survey of those portions of the ancient ' northern route ' of the Chinese which I had
not seen before. The short time that might remain available for antiquarian work I proposed
to use at two minor sites in the district of Bai, which my informants at Kuchā told me had never
been visited by European archaeologists.
Road to For the first two marches from Kuchā town to the Kizil river we followed the high road. This
Kizil R. ascends the barren hill chain trending towards the Muz-art-daryā by a winding gorge which opens
at a distance of about ten miles from Kuchā town. The high ruined tower and small cave-shrines
of Kizil-kāghe (Map No. 17. A. 1) which we passed about half-way to this gorge attest the antiquity
of the line followed by this portion of the road. At the most easily defended point of the defile,
known as Karaul, I noticed the foundations of four towers, perched on bold cliffs and evidently
marking an old chiusa.
Visit to The village of Kizil-örtang was reached on the second march after we had crossed a bare and
' Ming-oi ' much-broken plateau at a height of about 5,600 feet. Thence on May 8th I paid a rapid but
of Kizil. instructive visit to the great agglomeration of Buddhist cave-shrines situated in ravines above the
left bank of the Muz-art river (Fig. 343). This very important site, known as Kizil Ming-oi, has
been repeatedly examined and explored by various Russian, German, and French archaeological
expeditions. Full descriptions of the many interesting wall-paintings which decorated its cave-
temples have been furnished by Professor A. Grünwedel in two successive works ; while a large
number of those removed to Berlin will be found faithfully reproduced in Professor von Lecoq's
publications.¹ No detailed reference to the position and character of these shrines is therefore
necessary. The site as a whole recalled, more than any other in Chinese Turkestan, the impressions
left on me by the Thousand Buddhas of Tun-huang.
Site of On May 9th I left the line of the high road leading to Bai for a more northerly route. It took
Tezak- me through the flourishing village tract of Lapār and thence along the bed of the river which
hāghe. irrigates it, as well as that of Sairam, to the ruined site known as the Tezak-hāghe Ming-oi (Map
No. 17. A. 1). This place takes its name from the cultivated tract immediately below the point
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