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| 0356 |
Innermost Asia : vol.2 |
Citation Information
OCR Text
Chinese
inscription
at Süme-
tāsh.
On a cliff known as Süme-tāsh (Fig. 385), which overlooks the small delta formed by the stream of the Alichur Pāmīr where it enters the eastern extremity of the lake, rises a small ruined shrine. It formerly sheltered the stēlē commemorating the victory here gained in 1759 by the Chinese commander over the Khōjas of Kāshgar who were fleeing with their followers across the Pāmīrs towards Badakhshān.⁹ The inscription had been removed to the Tashkend Museum, probably after Colonel Yonoff's Cossacks on June 22, 1892, had wiped out the small Afghān detachment holding a post not far off. But the massive granite base of the stēlē was still in situ, probably the most enduring historical relic on the Pāmīrs and a fit emblem of that Chinese power which during the last two thousand years had again and again made itself felt on the far-off 'Roof of the World'. After leaving our Süme-tāsh camp on the morning of August 22nd, we passed, half a mile away to the south of the river, a curious triangular enclosure made of boulders and known as 'Khitai-kurghān'. Its longest side measured 25 yards. There was nothing by which to determine its origin.
Across
Bāsh-
gumbaz
pass to
Lake
Victoria.
Two marches up the Alichur Pāmīr, first in the marshy riverine trough, then over a wide grass-covered steppe, brought us to Bāsh-gumbaz-aghzi, the chief summer camp of the Kirghiz grazing on this Pāmīr and at that time occupied by more than two dozen 'Ak-ois'. A day's halt there offered an opportunity for useful anthropometrical work on their dwellers (Fig. 439) and for securing supplies, most of which are brought to this place from the side of Shughnān. Thence I turned south to cross the 'Pāmīr chain' dividing the Alichur and Great Pāmīrs by the pass of Bāsh-gumbaz. The ascent to it through the valley of the same name (Fig. 379) was of interest in that it clearly showed the series of terminal moraines successively left behind by the large glacier which had once filled it. The pass, crossed on August 26th at an elevation of about 16,300 feet, was the highest encountered on our route, but was found clear of snow throughout and less difficult than previous accounts had suggested. The valley below it opened upon a wide peneplain overlooking the western extremity of Lake Victoria or Zōr-kōl and the outlet from it of the Great Pāmīr branch of the Oxus. Here a grand panoramic view met the eye (Fig. 360), extending over the imposingly wide valley to the glacier-crowned range which divides it from uppermost Wakhān. For about six miles we skirted the foot of the range where it descends from the north to the Russian shore of the lake, and then near a large bay pitched camp for a day's halt.
Historical
interest of
Great
Pāmīr.
This central portion of the Great Pāmīr, where the borders of Russia and Afghānistān meet on the glittering expanse of Lake Victoria, is probably the best known ground of the whole Pāmīr region. Nevertheless it was a great satisfaction for me to have reached it. Ever since my youth I had longed to see this, the truly 'Great' Pāmīr, of which Captain Wood, the discoverer of its lake (February 19, 1838), had given so graphic a description. This desire had necessarily increased since the closer knowledge gained of the topography of the whole of the Pāmīrs and of the territories adjoining them east and west had confirmed the belief that the memories of those great travellers, Hsüan-tsang and Marco Polo, were associated with the Great Pāmīr, the routes of both from Wakhān having led past it. I have previously had occasion to indicate the reasons that induce me to share that belief;¹⁰ I need not, therefore, set them forth here in detail. But since Fate has allowed me to peruse, on the spot, the statements of the greatest of Chinese pilgrims and medieval travellers, I may be allowed to quote these and add some brief observations regarding them.
Hsüan-
tsang's
account of
Pāmīr.
'On the north-east of the frontier of Shang-mi 商 彌, skirting the mountains and crossing the valleys, advancing along a dangerous and precipitous road, after going 700 li or so, we come to the valley of Po-mi-lo 波 謎 羅. It stretches 1,000 li or so east and west, and 100 li or so from
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