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0399	Innermost Asia : vol.2
極奥アジア : vol.2

when occasion offered, upon their neighbours both to the north and south. Nevertheless dependence
on the Shāhs of Darwāz was, at least nominally, acknowledged, and is reflected in the fact that
the Yāzgulāmīs are considered to be Sunnīs, like all the rest of the Galchas northward. A route,
crossing the Oxus at the mouth of the valley, connects Yāzgulām with the tracts to the west of
the river once included in Darwāz, and this being formerly the easiest line of access probably
accounts for the political nexus indicated. Yet the population of Yāzgulām, reckoned at a total
of some 190 households, speak a language closely related to Shughnī.⁶ On the other hand,
intermarriage freely practised with the people of Wanj may account for a distinct difference which
I noted in physical type between the Yāzgulāmīs measured (Fig. 445) and the Rōshānīs.⁷

On moving through the gloomy gorges of the Oxus below Yāzgulām (Fig. 433) by the new Oxus gorges
bridle-path, blasted out of the perpendicular rock walls or leading over boldly built narrow below
balconies, it was easy to realize why the passage of this succession of awrinz was formerly risky Yāzgulām.
even for local hillmen and quite impossible for the carriage of loads. After passing those gorges
we came in sight of the large village of Zhōmarch on the other side of the river, from which easy
routes lead both to the grazing uplands of Badakhshān and down the left bank of the Oxus. There
are easy tracks likewise on the right bank below the mouth of the Wanj river. The road thence
down to Kala-i-Khumb, the capital of Darwāz, was said to have always been practicable for horses.

By the morning of September 30th we had reached Rōkhar, the chief place of Wanj (5,600 Valley of
feet elevation), with its ruinous old castle which then served as the residence of the Amīr's Wanj.
'Amlakdār' governing Wanj and Yāzgulām. The appearance of heavy clouds threatening fresh
snow on the Sitargh pass induced me to push up on the following day to the hamlet of Sitargh at
its foot (6,900 feet elevation). This march of about 30 miles showed clearly the open character of
the Wanj valley and its abundant cultivation. At only one point near Baraun had an awrinz
(Fig. 435) to be crossed. The change from the narrow peripheral valleys of the Pāmīr region was
marked also by the evidence of a moister climate. Up to a height of a thousand feet or more above
the valley bottom fields could be seen on easy slopes, which are tilled without irrigation and in
years of average rainfall yield fair crops. On slopes too steep for cultivation there was abundance
of tree-growth, while plentiful orchards around the villages and rows of trees planted between the
fields gave to the broad terraces and alluvial fans of the valley quite a parklike appearance. In
harmony with the altered appearance of the landscape there was also a change in the population.
This displays the type of the Tājiks, as found throughout the hills of Bokhāra territory (Fig. 446);⁸
they probably represent the Iranian race indigenous to ancient Sogdiana in greater purity than the
'Sarts' of the plains. The only language known to the people is Persian. The population of Wanj
was estimated to me at 300 households. But I soon found that each of the homesteads, usually
large whitewashed structures, sheltered the families of several brothers or relatives.

Heavy rain with fresh snow on the mountains necessitated a halt at Sitargh on October 2nd. Sitargh pass
Fortunately the sky cleared in time to permit us to start for the pass long before daybreak on the crossed.
following morning. The ascent was steep but easy at first, the side valley leading up to the water-
shed towards Khingāb being clothed with alpine vegetation and fairly open as compared with the
gorges which give access to the passes of Shitam and Adūde. From about 12,400 feet above sea-
level the climb led over large snow-covered moraines. Along debris masses skirting a steep glacier

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