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| 0033 |
Tibet and Turkestan : vol.1 |
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kitchen or whether he sleeps in the narrow corridor,
we know not; he is always at hand, always making
tea, which we are always drinking. He is an ideal
porter-valet-cook combination. Let me present to
you also Joseph, our interpreter. He was found in
Tiflis; he speaks French admirably, and of Oriental
tongues, Russian, Persian, Turki, Armenian, a little
Arabic, and, if there be a surviving dialect of it,
Chaldean, for by race Joseph is a Chaldean; he
lived until recently in Persia; he was educated by a
French missionary; has journeyed as far as Kashgar
with French travellers, and promises to go there,—
yea, even beyond Kashgar—with us. He is a rather
weak little man, honest, I believe, and well informed
—altogether a superior representative of that disap-
pointing class, Asiatic Christians. He called me
"Excellence" until he discovered that my purse and
manner made no special response. Joseph is trav-
elling second-class, but he is a neat person and
does n't look rumpled in the mornings. He forages
at the well-appointed railway restaurants which are
a precious fruit of Russian civilisation. We go for-
ward to the dining-car; yes—there is a dining-car in
Turkestan! In it are plenteous vegetable soups,
cucumbers ad infinitum, good meats, cold drinks.
The service is slow, but clean enough. Here you
meet the Russian officials and their wives going to
distant duty in the queer places which now bear the
Czar's yoke and enjoy the Czar's peace. Here, too,
you may meet, on this particular journey, three
charming young French gentlemen, who are going
as far as Samarcand, thence returning, and up the
Volga—thence across Siberia. Two of them are
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