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Tibet and Turkestan : vol.1 |
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When the great bridge across the Amou Daria—
the classic Oxus—has been passed, when our re-
luctant eyes have again turned from its cool flow to
the dark, hot sands, the Russian officer recalls to us
the hardship his people suffered in constructing this
railway, which is a mighty engine of war, and a
yet stronger implement for peace. The Oxus once
flowed to the Caspian Sea—but the Amou Daria
flows to the Aral basin; truly an erratic, radical
change to be made by a great, dignified river. Yet
not less radical has been the change in the political
destiny of all the vast region which the river trav-
erses. And as there is now no other basin to
which it would seem possible that its waters could
run, so there seems no other power than Russia
which could govern this Central Asian region.
Neither of these parallel propositions shall here be
argued at length, but a relief map and a skeleton
history would establish both.
Bokhara is our first halting-place. We find and
monopolise the three rooms of a decent boarding-
house near the station, in the small Russian
settlement. Here is the residence of the Czar's
representative who ''advises'' the Emir—and whose
advice is so singularly sound that it is always
followed. The relation thus established is one of
the oldest in political history, and may safely be
recommended to any strong power desiring to econ-
omise its strength, while never ceasing to threaten
and ''protect'' the weaker one.
From the Russian town we drive over to the
native city — fifty thousand people or more pro-
tected by several miles of sand from the rush of the
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457
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468
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