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| 0045 |
Tibet and Turkestan : vol.1 |
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put upon Samarcand the crown of empire. Here
he builded—and some rulers after him—the great
mosques and tombs whose white-and-blue beauty it
is so hard to suggest in words. Under their spell,
even an unimaginative American may feel the same
enthusiasm which moved a cultivated French trave l-
ler, M. Hugues Krafft, to express himself as follows:
"Worthy of taking rank among the masterpieces of
architecture, the 'great monuments of Samarcand' ought
to be known equally with the most majestic edifices
of the Greeks, the Romans, our Gothic cathedrals of
France, and the most celebrated creations of the Italian
Renaissance.
· · · · · ·
"Beyond the bridge commences the native city. The
shops, the tea-counters follow each other, almost without
interruption, along a gentle rise, up to the basin which
immediately precedes the Reghistan. Here one is at the
heart of 'old Samarcand,' at the centre of all the bazaars
and in the midst of the population's most feverish move-
ment. . . . Should I live a hundred years I should
ever retain the extraordinary impression left upon me by
the first sight of the Reghistan, with its madrasas and its
many-coloured masses. . . . The horses of our light
phaeton moving at a furious gallop, we made way through
the Asiatic crowd ranged, immobile, on either side of the
highway, and through people on foot and on horse, whom
the stationed police scattered as best they could. Along
the whole distance, the Sarts, hands crossed on breast,
bowed and bent one after the other; and I might have
thought myself an Oriental sovereign passing before his
subjects, had I not known that these humble salutations
were addressed solely to my companion (the Russian
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