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Digital Archive of Toyo Bunko Rare Books
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| 0069 |
Tibet and Turkestan : vol.1 |
Citation Information
OCR Text
And now comes the question — how much, O
gentle, general reader, do you want of detail about
a journey across the Alaï Mountains, from Osh, in
Russian Turkestan, to Kashgar, in Chinese Tur-
kestan? Half a dozen Russian telegraph-engineers,
two small garrisons in Russian Turkestan, one small
garrison in Chinese Turkestan,—so much for the
evidences of fixed civilisation along the two hundred
miles of caravan route between the suburban villages
of Osh and those of Kashgar. The Chinese frontier
officer was more polished, less forceful, than the
Russian post commanders. The only native in-
habitants seen were Kirghiz, perhaps a half-dozen
groups of tents, three or four in a group. We slept
at times in these yurtes, smoky and smelly enough
to make us prefer open-air beds except at most
freezing elevations. The pasturage near the caravan
route seemed not to be used to its full capacity.
Joseph was told by the Sart that the Kirghiz com-
plained of being forced by Russian soldiers to sell
sheep for less than their proper value. Hence, he
said, they had retired to secluded valleys. We
passed many caravans, chiefly those bearing diminu-
tive bales of raw cotton, trifles hoisted over the
mountains by a toss of the horns of bulls rampant
in New York and New Orleans—for surely nothing
less than fifteen cents per pound could pay such
toilsome transportation.
At the top of the Taldyk Pass, 11,800 feet above
sea, we gave thanks to the Russian engineer who
had smoothed the zigzag route, and memorial-
ised himself in stone at the dizzy top. Here the
complacent and prophetic Slav may widely gaze
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