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Tibet and Turkestan : vol.1 |
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their burdens of grain, together with a live sheep
and the bread-supply of one of our regular men,
up to the top of the pass, thus relieving our
own ponies. These were now sixteen in number,
and their strength must be husbanded against the
unknown, but surely great, demands which awaited
them.
We passed the donkeys the second day out on
our way up; they were struggling bravely against
mighty odds. We were harassed during four try-
ing days, from Polu to the pass: horses falling in
the torrents and slipping on the narrow trail, men
and beasts breathing harder as we climbed into the
thin upper air; sahibs as well as servants sleeping
in holes in the ground or in the open cold, because
all were too tired to mend a broken tent-pole. But
at last it was over, and we were camped about ten
miles beyond the pass, which looks northward over
all Turkestan and southward over the far-rolling,
mountain-marked plateau of Tibet. We were
warmed by a splendid sun; the waters of a little
lake shone at our feet, the tent was cosily set, there
were grass-roots from which fire could be had to
boil a pot of water for brewing tea, and for the
softening of a hare which Anginieur had killed at
fifteen thousand feet elevation; wild ducks and
geese invited us to make resounding shots in the
empty waste; we were tired, but happy, and we
waited for the donkeys. Each one of us in turn
played Sister Anna, mounted on some bare hillock
and far-gazing across the desert which closed around
us. No signs of life save an occasional hare and a
troop of wild dogs. These must have been a hungry
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