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Tibet and Turkestan : vol.1 |
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seeking yet another, though the feet be heavy.
Your solitude shall then be respected; open only
the way. Let no strange skeletons be mingled here
with those of the yak, the gazelle, the wild dog—
proper offerings on this your barren altar.''
Thus may struggle the spirit of man with the
spirits of all the conspiring elements. But the
ponies? Ah! they could but answer to the shrill
jibe of the death-bearing night wind: ''We bear the
burdens of man, his will must we serve while we
live, yours to-morrow when we die.'' How the
poor brutes churned and churned all night long!
They were tied in pairs, head to tail. Thus they
could move, but could not stray. Little rest for
them, this all-night milling round and round. But
to stand still meant death.
The loss of one's ponies is the peril that hangs
over all travel in this fatal region. It is impossible
to soften the frightful conditions in which they
strive to exist. They must travel to the limit of
their endurance, because the land is foodless. They
cannot be relieved from the effect of excessive alti-
tude; nor can they be protected at night from ex-
cessive cold. If the journey be long, they must
be fed on small rations. A fair load for a pony in
rough country is one hundred and fifty pounds, or
say two hundred. If he were fed ten pounds a day,
he could carry nothing more than his own food for
a twenty-day journey. The occasional grass one
meets counts for something, and we always sought
to camp near even the meanest-looking patch of it.
But one cannot rely upon it, and in the short time
available for grazing over sparse growth, the animal
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