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| 0154 |
Tibet and Turkestan : vol.1 |
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have excellent reasons for changing rules of conduct
supposedly fixed.
The caravan was in motion about ten hours dur-
ing the day just described; that is a long pull for
weak, underfed horses, so we had to shoot one on
breaking camp next morning. The straw of the
now useless pack-saddle was given in part to the
tea-making fire, and in part to the famished horses,
each one striving for a mouthful of the woody
fibre.
We are now nearly at the end of the long, flat
valley in which we had marched for eight or ten
days. It was closed just ahead of us, and there was
thus closed one chapter in the history of our woes.
Yet withal a few pleasant elements had entered into
the experience. Two lakes were discovered, one
drinkable, the other salt. The fresh water lay beau-
tifully blue at the foot of sharply rising mountains
and gladdened our eyes for two days. Around the
other tracks were found, some quite new, and these
lifted our hopes. But the trails thinned out into
the silent hills. They were evidently made by wild
horses coming to the salt licks. Both the lakes were
new to the maps.
It was near the sweet water that we had a half
day's diversion furnished by a herd of wild yak.
Miles had given us a Berdan rifle. With this and
the Mauser gun-pistol we taught the yaks and the
virgin echoes how noisy and how harmless may be
the artillery of the breath-spent hunter. That we
were exhausted by our vain stalking efforts was of
small concern; that we failed to get fresh meat was
a disappointment, particularly for the men, who
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