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Tibet and Turkestan : vol.1 |
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life should possess the elementary virtues developed
as they were in this band of nomads, dwelling in
the western wilds of Tibet, hundreds of miles from
their kind. They were dignified, yet respectful;
they were poor, but honest; they were hospitable,
but not fawning; we were helpless in their power,
and they sold their scant provisions and their labour
(vital to us) for the usual Central Asian prices. On
the mere word of our men they took Russian gold
in payment, though they were familiar with no
money save the Chinese silver, and must send the
gold to Yarkand or Kashgar for exchange.
The service of the camels that brought us out,
including the men who tended them, was charged
at forty cents per day each. The ponies which we
rode were also forty cents each per day, including
the necessary grain, which is here very precious, as
it must be brought by caravan from Yarkand. The
Good Samaritan could not have better played the
rôle which he created than did these Mussulmen,
astray from temple and from mosque. Judging
from the glimpses of Kirghiz life which we had
while crossing the Alaï Mountains from Osh to
Kashgar, I had thought these nomads quite careless
about all religious ceremonial, as, indeed, must be
probable, since they are never in communities where
they may be assembled in pious celebrations. Yet
so strong was the hold of the Prophet's law that the
morning sun, looking into their cheerless camp,
found all the men in genuflexion toward Mecca.
This persistent but unostentatious performance of
the prayer rite is—well, it is not European, or, shall
I say, not Protestant European.
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