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Tibet and Turkestan : vol.1 |
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to these lovely sights, when we have climbed by
an ever-reversing, ever-returning trail far up the
granite facing of a high cliff, there lay far below us
the wondrous Nubra valley, green, gold, and russet
groves, yellowing fields of grain, and behold! there
were men's houses! White, squared, well-roofed,
walled about, and set in orderly array, trooping
toward a goodly village called Panamirgh. A
nobler sight one may not see than this Himalayan
vale set against the far-shining snow-peaks from
which the high gods look down to bless. Here
Lamaism, sheltered by Sasar's icy rampart on the
north, by Kardung's glassy heights on the south,
still turns its prayer-wheels, flutters its painted ap-
peals to the passing breeze, builds its white shrines
more numerous than the living men, piles its myriad
carved stones on roadside monuments, sounds its
solemn drums, teaches Buddha's distorted word,
yet practises a peaceful life and a resigned death,
all unmindful of the thin streams of Hinduism or
Mohammedanism, flowing backward, forward, along
the road which time and Asia's genius, Patience,
have worn through the tranquil valley, over the for-
bidding mountains, this way to Yarkand and far
Kitai, and there to Leh, Kashmir, and all the In-
dian world beyond.
Dark superstitions may haunt the minds of these
remote valley people, but the outward expression
of religious feeling is seemly enough. The chortens
—wayside tombs of saints and shrines for living
prayer—are white, shapely structures, so much be-
yond the building capacity of any one generation
of this sparse people that they attest the secular
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