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0202 Tibet and Turkestan : vol.1
Tibet and Turkestan : vol.1 / Page 202 (Grayscale High Resolution Image)

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doi: 10.20676/00000231
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piety of many ancestors. So, too, the long, low
mounds whereon are placed countless stones re-
sembling this book in size, each bearing in neat
carving the myriad-throated prayer, "Om mani
padma Hum." From twenty to a thousand feet
in length, from ten to thirty feet in width, these
masses built up of rubble walls bear not less than
millions of these mute appeals for grace—and this
in a valley some sixty miles long, and containing
not more than six thousand souls. The people
have been hewn from the political body to which
they belonged. Lhasa is now only their spiritual
capital since the Maharajah of Kashmir, some forty
years ago, struck at Leh, where reigned a Ladaki
king who bent to the distant Dalai Lama's sway.
Now the king's palace is empty, and Kashmiri offi-
cials lord it over a land whose cue-wearing heads
avouch the long reach of China's emperor, overlord
to wide-stretched Tibet.
The present rulers from the West seem to have
emptied, by fright or famine, several of the big
monasteries, even here in secluded Nubra, distant
three hard days from Leh. But now again the
dingy red robes thread back and forth, carrying
consolation to satisfied believers. Groups are seen,
wayworn, of calm face and worthy mien, who are
just in from Lhasa, five hundred miles away.
They bring superstition, inspiration, and direc-
tion, as it would be brought from Rome to a
secluded valley in Spain or Mexico, by some pilgrim
priest of long ago. Perhaps because of the recent
exodus of priests to Lhasa, the lamas now, in all the
Ladak country, are not a devouring horde of locusts,