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| 0207 |
Tibet and Turkestan : vol.1 |
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ordered industry, inordinate piety, and average
morality. On the third day we were at the base
of huge Kardung. Its glacis of solid ice proved
steeper, its eighteen thousand feet elevation nar-
rower, than the front and crest of Sasar. The
ponies on which we had cantered through the low
lands (twelve thousand to thirteen thousand feet
elevation) were quite out of the climbing if burdened
with aught save their own weight. They could have
done it on stones, but the deceitful ice laid hold
upon their feet and tripped them to a bone-breaking
fall. Substitution of yaks, happily found at the base
of the ice-slope, permitted us to top the slippery
height, whence we looked far down into the Indus
valley. Now, indeed, the way was won, for ere the
night had gone two hours, we were in the dak-
bungalow at Leh, and there were English maga-
zines, a few months old, but for us, contemporaries.
Lassoo had told us of the Padre Sahib—we were to
see white faces again. Of these we found five all
told: an Englishman and his wife, a German and
his wife, and a young unmarried Englishwoman, a
few months out, all of the Moravian Mission. Yea,
and there were others, baby faces in both house-
holds. It was the usual story—pathetic to all save
the actors.
For forty years this mission has been at Leh, and
there are forty poor Ladakis who profess some
sort of allegiance to the gods of the good sahibs.
Plainly, conversion is not supposed to be an intel-
lectual process. Its usual course may thus be de-
scribed: There is a dispensary whose bottles and
powders affect the body. There are brilliant chromos
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