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| 0217 |
Tibet and Turkestan : vol.1 |
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CHAPTER X
LADAK LEH TO RAWAL PINDI—FROM YAK TO RAIL-
WAY VIA PONY TRAIL, OVER THE HIMA-
LAYAS, INTO THE VALE OF KASHMIR
WHEN we had seen the sights of Leh and had
watched its four thousand people pour along
the bazaar, when we had broken bread with the
hospitable missionaries, when we had sent the tele-
grams that quieted fears at home, then came the
breaking up of our little force. Mir Mullah had not
been willing to brave the Karakoram route; he had
left us at the Kirghiz camp, and his prayers by this
time were rising again from a Kashgar roof. Las-
soo (who was here in the bosom of one of his several
families) and Achbar, must go with us to Srinagar,
for there were no English along the great caravan
road from Leh to Kashmir, and we must make shift
to speak with the attendants at dak-bungalows.
Because you have probably read Kipling, that
word has gone into my text unexplained, but by
some scurvy trick of fate you may be outside the
Kipling pale; then, for you, dak-bungalow is post-
road house. They are open to all white travellers
and to big natives. You are supposed to have your
own bedding, and it is best to have with you any
European food which you chance to crave. The
dak-bungalow is a shelter, has several rooms and
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