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Tibet and Turkestan : vol.1 |
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thought differently and enforced their opinion by
thrusts of a poisoned weapon, which ended Ali's
life in the year 661 A.D. His saintly reputation
lived and grew, and these, our chance companions
of the caravan trail, were lamenting his demise, as
all good Shiites do and have done, for lo! these
centuries gone. But their grief is controllable. Its
expression lasts just so many minutes, and, as I re-
membered when the spell of sympathy was broken,
is rhythmic, more cadenced even than the rudely
musical lu-lu which the black women in Africa chant
in misfortune's hour.
The recovery of spirits takes place automatically
as soon as the wailing is ended. Our combined
cavalcade set off as merrily as if Ali had never lived
or had never died.
Our speedy march soon left the cheerful mourners
far to the rear. We hastened on, dodging past the
slow caravans of commerce, meeting here the tins of
Caspian kerosene which once we saw in far Baku,
giving the courtesy of the road to a native governor
or what-not, whose escort swarmed the trail and
whose invisible wife rode for hours on end, silent
and stiff in her litter. We chatted (you may imagine
chatting through Achbar) with coolies who pack
dried fruits two hundred miles or more across the
Himalayas, fifty pounds, pig-a-back; we talked with
a golf-stockinged, English-speaking, joke-loving na-
tive Commissioner, fresh from Kipling's pages, who
proposed a drink and mystified Anginieur by calling
it a "peg," and then we crossed the Zoji Pass, thus
ending all hardship and dropping into fair Kashmir.
This pass is not quite twelve thousand feet high,
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