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Tibet and Turkestan : vol.1 |
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ages fed the famished souls of travellers, incoming
from all the bleak mountains that guard it. Love-
liness, that would charm the senses in any land, here
ravishes criticism of its censure and receives from
flattered imagination the crown of perfect praise.
By nature's unwonted opulence sober judgment is
bribed, and declares that here is every tree and
shrub and flower that would delight the eye in gaz-
ing wide "from China to Peru." Set against this
sudden magnificence the splendid verdure of Cha-
pultepec, of the flaming Catskills, or the Abyssinian
Nile all seemed to me but grudging penury ;
so false is memory, so powerful is the force of
Now.
If the soul be but ripe for it, a gentle hill in Surrey
may outrear the mightiest Alps. But as we exult-
ingly galloped forward there was no introspective
scalpel that might pare the beauty which filled our
hearts. Absolute, relative—no matter. Life be-
came precious because it contained this waving of
green, golden, and red banners, and each of us could
ride through the rich carnival as a king to his pre-
pared heritage. We had come into the vale of
Kashmir through its most beautiful gateway, and
we were among the few Europeans to thus have the
great canvas flung before them, for the first time,
from this point of view. The general travel into
Kashmir has been from west and south to Srinagar.
If then Ladak be sought, the traveller goes up the
Sind, as we came down. But the great lower plain
will already have shown him glorious views (though
a sparser beauty), and perhaps the piled-up riches
of the narrow valley will not be deemed by him so
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