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Tibet and Turkestan : vol.1 |
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somewhat rickety but sufficient unto man's needs;
mosques and temples in neighbouring rivalry; splen-
did tree-lined avenues leading toward the mountains;
caravans coming and going; dogs and babies under
one's feet in the narrow streets—such is Srinagar
with its hundred and thirty thousand souls domi-
nated by the great hill Fakht-i-Suleiman—Solomon's
throne—whose crown is half-temple, half-fortifica-
tion. Around it waving green fields, which are cut
by roads straight, smooth, and beautifully shaded.
And beyond the fields ever the white guardian
mountains. The whole valley is such a spot as
would be chosen by the high gods (if they had not
invented man) for exclusive garden-parties, with the
rabble of lesser gods peeking enviously over the
walls. Gods failing, the English will doubtless take
and "preserve" it.
Had not the home-fever now laid fast hold upon
us, we should have lingered in this fair lotus-land.
Our horseback days were past. We were now to
roll on the king's highway, four good wheels beneath
us. Three days, and sixty miles 'twixt rising and
setting of the sun, would let us gain Rawal Pindi,
lying over the western range. These are not tower-
ing mountains like the Himalayas, but high enough
to have cut off Kashmir from the greasy touch of
the locomotive, high enough to have given for ages
almost a separate history from that of the surround-
ing countries. Englishmen in Srinagar still speak
of "going down into India." Most of those who
hot-weathered in the English hotel had already
"gone down," as we were now well into November.
It cost us a pang to turn our backs upon Lassoo and
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