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| 0063 |
India and Tibet : vol.1 |
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OCR Text
The answer from the Lhasa magistrate to his request
to be permitted to proceed to Lhasa arrived a few days
after his arrival at Gyantse. A passport was given him,
transport and supplies furnished, and as he neared Lhasa
he was met by a "respectable person on horseback, who
dismounted and saluted," and who had been sent out by
the Tibetan authorities to welcome him and conduct him
to Lhasa.
The view of the Potala, "of the lofty, towering palace,
which forms a majestic mountain of a building," excited
his admiration, but if the palace had exceeded his expec-
tations, he says, the town as far fell short of them. There
was "nothing striking, nothing pleasing, in its appearance.
The habitations were begrimed with smut and dirt. . . .
In short, everything seemed mean and gloomy, and
excited the idea of something unreal."
His first care was to provide himself with a proper
hat, and, having found one, he proceeded to pay his
respects to the Chinese Mandarin. Coming into his
presence, he for the first time in his life performed the
ceremony of ketese, or kneeling. The Mandarin received
him politely, and said he had provided him with quarters.
On the following day he visited two of the chief Tibetan
officials.
On December 17, 1811, he went to the Potala to salute
the Grand Lama. He took with him as an offering some
broadcloth, two pair of china ewers, and a pair of good
brass candlesticks, which he had "clean and furbished
up," and into which he put "two wax candles to make a
show." He also took "thirty new bright dollars, and as
many pieces of zinc," and, besides this, "some genuine
Smith's lavender-water . . . and a good store of Nankin
tea, which is a rarity and delicacy at Lhasa, and not to be
bought there."
Arrived in the great hall he made due obeisance,
touching the ground three times with his head to the
Grand Lama, and once to the Ti-mi-fu. While he was
bowing, "the awkward servants contrived to let fall and
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431
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441
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451
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461
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471
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481
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521
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531
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541
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546
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