国立情報学研究所 - ディジタル・シルクロード・プロジェクト
『東洋文庫所蔵』貴重書デジタルアーカイブ

means "Tibetan" and the Ladakhis, therefore, called Riñchan's mosque "The Tibetan
Mosque."

Only a short distance from Bulbul Lankar, people showed us the "grave of Rindān
Shāh." It is indicated by a plain stone without an inscription, a little larger than the
tombstones of ordinary people. It is surrounded by a low stone wall on all four sides,
and rose bushes have been planted inside the enclosure (Plate XLV, b).

There are many rumours among the Ladakhis about another Bodro Masjid (Tibetan
Mosque) at Śrīnagar. They say that it was an old Buddhist temple which was convert-
ed into a mosque several centuries ago, and that pictures of Buddhist saints are traceable
under its whitewash. Popular tradition has connected this mosque with Naropa and
calls it Na-ro-pai-thsogs-khang, "Naropa's Assembly Hall." Of this Bodro Masjid, it is
asserted that it is situated below the Hari Parbat or castle hill of Śrīnagar; but although
we tried our best to find it, we were not successful. In the course of our researches we
were taken to another very insignificant little mosque outside the town, at Idka (Idgāh)
which did not appear to be very old. This little mosque was also called Bodro Masjid by
the Kashmiris. It may have been erected on the site of a former mosque which was
more worthy of the name; but the real Bodro Masjid with the Buddhist pictures below
its whitewash still remains to be discovered.

The Ladakhis regard the Takht-i-Sulaimān, the hill overlooking Śrīnagar, as the
former abode of Padma-sambhava, and have legends connected with him. Padma-sam-
bhava is supposed to have lived in the present stone temple on the top of the hill, which
is believed to have been his hermitage. They called the hill Puspa ari,¹ and say
that the hermit once saw seven magicians perform miracles on the surface of the lake
which then covered the Kashmir valley. He threw a handful of barley over them
and thus prevented their escape; for according to Tibetan belief, spirits can be arrested
by throwing barley at them. He kept them in his service, and the present inhabitants
of Kashmir are descended from them. The works of art executed by the Kashmiris
are like the work of magicians in the eyes of the Ladakhis.

At Śrīnagar I enjoyed the hospitality of the two doctors Neve, well known as
medical missionaries and explorers. In their house, I also made the acquaintance of
Dr. Longstaff who had just returned from a most successful expedition along the frontier
of Ladakh and Turkestan. The results of this expedition, viz., the discovery of the
largest glacier, and of one of the highest mountain peaks in the Himālayas, are now being
published in various geographical journals. It was a great treat for me to be able to
discuss a number of geographical questions, regarding Tibet, with this experienced
geographer. It was also encouraging to meet here with Sir Francis Younghusband's
interest in our work and achievements.

As Pindi Lal belonged to Dr. Spooner's establishment we travelled first to Peshāwar,
to divide our office equipment between the Peshāwar and the Simla offices. After a few
ideal days, spent under the hospitable roof of the discoverer of the "Buddha's relics," we
reached Simla safely on the 11th of November.