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The Pulse of Asia : vol.1 |
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soon as the tea-bowls were empty, a boy with the regulation
long-necked, slender-nosed ewer and large basin with a
crinkly edge poured water over our hands, the unequivocal
announcement that a solid meal was at hand. The Beg
and I, on a piazza of mud on one side of a shady little court-
yard, shared a huge round platter of "pilaf," or rice, appe-
tizingly cooked with mutton and greens. This the Beg ate
skillfully with his fingers, rolling up a ball about an inch in
diameter and snapping it into his mouth. The remainder of
our repast consisted of a wooden bowl of delicious curdled
milk, which the Beg scooped up with a thin sheet of bread.
The rest of the party, being of lower rank, sat on another
platform on the other side of the courtyard; and the ten
or twelve of them shared two platters of "pilaf," the size of
ours. They ate rapidly, but not noisily like the Khirghiz.
There was no conversation, but once in two or three min-
utes every one drew back and waited. Then one, followed
by another, would wave his hand politely over the dish
and invite the others to begin again, and all would fall to.
It is not considered polite to talk during meals. The time
for conversation is when more important matters have been
attended to.
Having had three meals that morning, I was not at all
hungry at one o'clock. At that hour, as we were on our
homeward way, a galloping horseman shot out of a lane
and almost knocked the Beg over. There was a laugh, and
an explanation. It appeared that the rider bore another
invitation; so we all turned up the lane, "for a bowl of
tea." This time there had been less prearrangement. We
sat around an empty adobe tank under the shade of the
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