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| 0380 |
The Pulse of Asia : vol.1 |
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rushing brook plunged over naked red rock between high
terraces of silt and gravel. The wildness of the scenery set
my Ladakhis to talking of their far-away gorges in the lofty
Himalayas. When we came upon the huge ancient monas-
tery of Tuyok, built largely in caves dug in the terraces, we
felt as if we had been suddenly transported to Ladakh. The
village of Tuyok itself, on the terraces at the mouth of the can-
yon, might well have been in the Indus valley. Turfan is
crowded with the ruins of Buddhist temples and lamaseries.
Each of the ancient holy places has retained its character
in spite of the change from Buddhism to Mohammedan-
ism, and the shrines of the past are the shrines of to-day.
The chief of them is here at Tuyok. The head sheikh enter-
tained me in his own house. With the freedom from fanati-
cism characteristic of the Chantos, he took me into the inner
shrine, where ordinary pilgrims are not permitted to enter.
I fear it was a case of the power of the purse. He thought I
was rich because I could afford to spend three or four dol-
lars a day. When the Sheikh first heard of my approach, he
sent a hasty messenger to recall his mother, who had started
that morning for Lukchun to attend the wedding of the boy
Wang. I remonstrated on hearing of this, but the sheikh
answered: —
"If the Wang should see her at the wedding and know
that she had left great guests at home uncared for, he would
be very angry. He sent a special message that we were to
show the Sahib every honor."
Etiquette obliged the sheikh's wife to mortify her curios-
ity, and hide her face and run away whenever she saw me;
but his mother, simply because she was his mother, could
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