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| 0381 |
The Pulse of Asia : vol.1 |
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not only speak to me, but could bring meals to my room,
though her son must set them before me.
Tuyok is a peculiar town. All of its two hundred and
fifty families live by grape culture. They say that they raise
absolutely nothing else except a little fruit and a few vege-
tables for their own consumption. Their grapes, a small,
seedless, green variety, are taken to Pekin for the emperor's
table. They are decidedly the best that I have ever tasted.
On leaving Tuyok, I visited various ruins, especially
those of Kara-Khoja, the ancient capital; and finally fin-
ished my explorations in Central Asia at the city of Tur-
fan, March 12. There I met the Rev. G. W. Hunter of the
China Inland Mission, and had the keen pleasure of talking
English for the first time in six months. He, too, had been
long alone among natives. More than once Chinese words
slipped unconsciously into his conversation, as Turki did
into mine. From Turfan I rode a four days' journey to
Urumchi, the provincial capital. There the Chinese vice-
roy, and still more the Russian consul-general, Mr. Dolbe-
jef, assisted me most heartily. As my work was now finished,
I disposed of my horses, and sent back my faithful servants
by the main caravan road through Kucha to Khotan, where
three of them went east to their homes near Chira and Ke-
riya, and two traversed the Karakorum route to Ladakh.
I parted from them with genuine regret, for one and all
had done most faithful and efficient service. For myself,
I hired a two-wheeled Chinese cart and two worthless ser-
vants from Turfan. Seventeen days of hard traveling to the
northwest across Dzungaria brought me to Chuguchak on
the border of Siberia, April 7. There the Russian consul,
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