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| 0024 |
The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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PAGE
murdered in Tibet—Père Hendriks—His accomplishments and privations
—Arrival of Messrs. Beech and Lennard—A Christmas dinner—Mono-
tony of life—Arrival of a post—Bad news and good—I am made a C.I.E.
—Permission to return to India—Arrival of Lieutenant Davison—His
adventures—We start together—A misunderstanding ... ... ... 306
CHAPTER XV.
KASHGAR TO INDIA.
I take leave of Macartney—Departure from Chinese Turkestan—Its murky
atmosphere—Pilgrimages to Mecca—The Gez defile—A temporary lake
—Bulun-kul—I part from Lieutenant Davison—Little Kara-kul—A re-
markable lake—A grand view—Tagarma plain—Tashkurgan again—
Reports of Russian force on the Pamirs—Wakhijrui Pass—Bozai-Gumbaz
—A party of Cossacks—Colonel Yonoff arrives—His mission—Tent of
Russian officers—Compared with my own—A dinner-party—Surveying
work done by the Russians—The Khora Bhort Pass—Exchange of informa-
tion—Departure of the Russians—Colonel Yonoff returns to order me away
—I consent under protest—Subsequent apology of Russian Government—
I go to the Kukturuk valley—Lieutenant Stewart arrives with escort—
Return of Lieutenant Davison—His treatment by the Russians—Among
the mountains again—The watershed of the Indus and Oxus—The heart of
Central Asia—The Panja River—Back to Bozai-Gumbaz—How to return
to India?—We find a pass—A snowstorm—A glacier—Instinct of the yak
—An icy blast—Rough descent—The Karumbar River—Gilgit—Heavy
snow on the Burzil Pass—A detachment of Gurkhas snowed up—Frost-
bite—The Tragbal Pass—The valley of Kashmir—End of another journey
—Death of Davison ... ... ... ... ... ... 322
CHAPTER XVI.
CHITRAL AND HUNZA.
State of Hunza—Expedition against Safder Ali in 1892—I am sent to relieve
Captain Stewart—British power in Border States—The policy of "punish
and retire" not the best—Pacification of Hunza—British suzerainty—The
true mode of dealing with petty chiefs—Loyalty of Hunza—Mohammed
Nazim, successor of Safder Ali—My return to the country—Kakapushi
Peak—Nilt, the scene of the gallant affair in 1892—Baltit—Meeting with
Mohammed Nazim—Characteristics of the people—Winter preparations—
Turning swords into ploughshares—News of trouble in Chitral—Death of
the Mehtar—I am summoned by Colonel Durand—Account of Chitral—
Aman-ul-Mulk and his sons—Rival claimants—Sher Afzul's successful
attack—Nizam-ul-Mulk defeats him—Application for British aid—Our
advance from Gilgit—Shandur Pass—Ghiza—Frost-bites—Mastuj—De-
scription of Nizam-ul-Mulk—A popinjay—The Chitralis—Life in Chitral—
—The coming of spring—Excursions—Lessons in mountaineering—A
mountain view—Characteristics of the country ... ... ... 348
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