National Institute of Informatics - Digital Silk Road Project
Digital Archive of Toyo Bunko Rare Books
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The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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behind, and ourselves seated at the base of the shafts along-
side the drivers, with our legs dangling over the side. In the
summer months, when the roads are soft and muddy, the pace
is not rapid, and the traveller can jump off, walk alongside,
and jump on again as he likes. But in the winter, when the
roads are frozen and worn down by the heavy traffic almost
as smooth as an asphalte roadway, these carts trundle along
at a good five or six miles an hour, and with a thousand
or twelve hundred pounds of goods will do their thirty miles
a day without any difficulty.
Everywhere along the road are found inns where accommo-
dation for man and beast can be obtained. The first plunge from
European civilization—which in our case was represented by the
house of Mr. Allen, the British Consul at Newchwang—into a
Chinese inn is not agreeable; but when once one has settled
down to the inevitable roughness of travel, one finds many
advantages in it. As a rule a private room can be obtained,
all the necessaries of life are procurable, and fodder for the
animals is always ready. These inns are generally well-built
houses, and are a real boon to the native travellers and
merchants. There is usually one long room, with a low
platform on either side and a passage down the middle. On
these platforms, or kangs, which can be warmed underneath,
the guests recline or squat at the low tables which are placed
on them, eating their meals and chatting volubly. At night
the travellers sleep in long rows cheek by jowl along the
platforms. The great drawback to these inns is their dirt,
inside and around, and we often longed for the cleanliness
of those Japanese inns which Fulford used to describe to us.
At 120 miles from Newchwang we reached Mukden, the
capital of Manchuria, and at one time the seat of govern-
ment for the present reigning dynasty of China. Our recep-
tion there was not a pleasant one, and as we rode through
the streets in search of an inn, we were followed even into
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