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The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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though it was so cold, I do not remember suffering very
much from it. The air was generally still, and we had the
advantage of starting from a warm house with something
warm inside us, and at the end of our day's march, we again
found a good warm room to go to. It was afterwards, on
the Pamirs and in the Himalayas, that I really felt the cold,
for there, instead of a warm room to start from, I only had
a small tent, and sometimes no tent at all, nor sufficient fire-
wood for a fire, and the high altitudes, by causing breath-
lessness and bringing on weakness, added to my discomfort.
Here in Manchuria, unless it happened to be windy—and
then, of course, it was really trying — the cold affected us
very little. The roads were frozen hard and the snow on
them well beaten down by the heavy traffic, and we trundled
along a good thirty miles a day.
The traffic in this winter season was wonderful. I counted
in a single day's march over eight hundred carts, all heavily
laden and drawn by teams of at least two and many of
them nine animals, ponies or mules. A main road in Man-
churia in the winter is a busy scene, and these strings of
carts going along on the frosty morning, with the jingling
bells on the teams, and the drivers shouting at their animals,
were signs of life and animation which we had hardly
expected to see after our first experience on the heavy,
muddy roads in the summer. The inns were numerous and
crowded, and as a string of carts passed by the inn, men
would come running out, proclaiming the advantages of their
particular hostelry, and trying to persuade the carters to come
in. Then, when the carts stopped, the inn men would bustle
about, fetching grain and fodder for the animals and food
for the men, and there was as much bustle and activity as
in a market town in England. I remarked, too, how very
well the carters fed their animals. These Manchurian, or
rather Mongolian, ponies and mules are never allowed any
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482
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