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Digital Archive of Toyo Bunko Rare Books
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The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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well fed, and well clothed. Food is plentiful and cheap, and
the excellence of the winter roads makes it possible to import
goods readily from the coast. The character of the people
will have been gathered from the previous narrative. They
are certainly not attractive to strangers, and at the end of a
journey one leaves them without regret ; but they have this
good quality of industry—they are persevering in their efforts
at colonization, and thrifty in their habits.
Two days before Christmas, Fulford and I had to start for
Tientsin. It was rather a wrench to have to leave our friends
just before Christmas in this way, but I thought it possible
that we might just reach Tientsin before the river was closed,
and so be able to get away down the coast at once. Christmas
Day we spent in a Chinese inn. We, of course, had a plum-
pudding, which had been presented to us by our friends, and
some wine in which to drink the health of those at home, and
certainly it had been a great satisfaction to me to have been
able to telegraph home from Newchwang our safe return from
our journey, so that now at Christmas-time they might feel no
uneasiness on my account.
We passed nothing of interest till we reached Shan-hai-kuan,
the point where the Great Wall of China begins, or ends, in the
sea. This was a sight really worth seeing. A line of hills
between two or three thousand feet in height, stretched from
inland close down to the seashore ; and all along these heights,
as far as the eye could reach, ran this wonderful wall, going
down the side of one hill, up the next, over its summit and
down the other side again, and then at the end coming finally,
down and plunging right into the sea till the waves washed
the end of it. It was no trumpery little wall, nor such a wall
for instance, as one sees round a modern prison, but a regular
castle wall, such as they built in the Middle Ages round their
strongest castles, thirty or forty feet high, of solid stone, and
fifteen feet or so thick, wide enough for two carriages to drive
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