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| 0109 |
The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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occasions. Originally enclosed within walls about three hundred
yards square, which are still remaining, it outgrew these, and
an outer wall was built all round about a mile square. This
also it outgrew, and large numbers of houses have been built
beyond the second wall. At the time of my visit, however, the
population was falling off, and the place was losing a great deal
of its former importance as a depôt of trade with Mongolia.
Mr. Clarke said that there were two reasons for this: firstly,
because the tea, which used formerly to be brought up from
Hankow to this place, and then taken across the Gobi desert to
Kiakhta, is now carried by steamers to Tientsin, and thence
by Kalgan to Kiakhta and Siberia; and, secondly, because
the war in Kashgaria and the Tungan rebellion had almost
stopped trade for some years, and it had never since
revived.
Kwei-hwa-cheng used originally to be a Mongol town. It is
even now included in Mongolia, and there is a Mongol prince
resident in the place; but no one would believe that it was not
Chinese, for it is occupied almost exclusively by Chinamen, and
the Mongols are relegated to the outskirts. There are, however,
some fine Buddhist temples and a large number of Mongol
lamas in the city. These, Mr. Clarke says, are much less sincere
in their Buddhism than the Chinese Buddhist priests. Neither
ought, strictly speaking, to eat meat, and the Chinese priests as
a rule do not; but the Mongols have more lax ideas, and are
not above eating flesh occasionally. The scene in the Mongol
bazaar, on the north side of the inner city, is very interesting.
Here are seen the weather-beaten, ruddy-faced Mongols from
the desert, with their huge foxskin caps and dirty sheepskin
coats, coming in to buy a few necessaries, which they are unable,
or rather too lazy, to make for themselves, and they bargain at
the stalls, with the astute Chinese stall-keepers, for leather
boots, whips, pipes, caps, and various other things. And there
are the Chinese caravan-men buying up requisites for marching
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