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The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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There were a hundred and forty camels, carrying made-up
clothes and leathern boots to Guchen. Their camp looked
very neat. The packs were arranged in long parallel lines,
and were very neatly done up, and everything looked
brand new. When it threatened rain, each pack was covered
with a white felt, which was tied round it. The coolies
had one big tent, and the agent a smaller one. The
former were smart fellows, and did their work wonderfully
quickly and well. They were Chinamen from Kwei-hwa-
cheng. The agent in charge came over to visit me, and
we had a long talk, for I had begun to pick up a certain
amount of Chinese from my nightly conversations with Liu-
san. This agent had been to Tientsin, and had bought there
a few Remington and Martini-Henry rifles, and also a Gatling
gun for the general at Urumchi. He said that from Ili
(Kueldja) the usual road to Peking was by Kobdo, Uliassutai,
and Kiakhta. It is one hundred and ten stages by the road—
a distance which he says he rode in twenty-eight days upon
one occasion, when taking an important despatch, at the time
of the retrocession of Kueldja to China by Russia.
Two new camels having been purchased, we set out again
on the 28th, in spite of the violent wind that was blowing; but
we did not get far, and had to halt again the whole of the next
day on account of the wind. Although it was now the end of
May, the cold at night was still considerable, and I have noted
that in bed I wore two flannel shirts and a cardigan jacket,
lying under two thick blankets. It was the wind that made
it cold, blowing from the W.N.W. and N.W.
On May 31 we passed over an undulating country covered
with coarse grass. Several flocks and herds were seen, and to
the south there appeared to be good grass-land in the depression
between the Hurku Hills and a parallel range, ten or twelve
miles to the south. According to a Mongol who visited us,
there is some land cultivated by Mongols four miles to the
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