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The heart of a continent : vol.1 |
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ranges of hills on either hand, about fifteen miles distant on
the north and ten miles on the south, and the plain occupies
the space between them, which is not quite flat, however,
but slopes gradually up to the hills on either hand. The
distances, as usual, are most deceptive; the ranges look quite
close, as if you could get up to them easily in an hour, and
the mountains ahead appear comparatively close, but you travel
on and on and don't seem to get any nearer to the distant
hills, while the peaks on your right and left are only very slowly
left behind.
On the 4th we reached a Mongol encampment, called
Tu-pu-chi. This is the most thickly populated part I have
seen in the Gobi, as there were several other yurts scattered
over the plain. The guide had left a large supply of flour and
rice here on a previous trip, and now replenished the stock he
had with him. The Mongols looked very poor, thin, and badly
fed, and were miserably dressed. Their flocks of sheep, though,
were in first-class condition, and were collected round the
different yurts. We continued on about another six miles,
and then halted by some more yurts, where a new Mongol
joined our party to look after the camels.
On the following day we crossed a ridge connecting the
Hurku Hills with the southern range, and descended a wide
valley or plain between those two ranges on the western side
of the connecting ridge. Between us and the southern range
was a most remarkable range of sandhills, called by my guide
Hun-kua-ling. It is about forty miles in length, and is com-
posed of bare sand, without a vestige of vegetation of any sort
on it, and I computed it in places to be as much as nine
hundred feet in height, rising abruptly out of a gravel plain.
With the dark outline of the southern hills as a background,
this white fantastically shaped sand-range presents a very
striking appearance. It must have been formed by the action
of the wind, for to the westward is an immense sandy tract,
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